Question about Hitachi 43UWX10B 43" Rear Projection Television

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Wont Power on Light Flashs

I see others have posted on the same issue, Im curious, I realize that a fuse must be blown, I have several green lights and one red light, how do I diagnose where the problem is???

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Re: Wont Power on Light Flashs

Check for shorted cap C702 and open fuse E994.....Let me know..............I will research when I go in to my shop this morning...............................T.

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

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check first loose or broken power cord. if ok, what you can do is look for the power supply board look for blown fuse sometimes due to voltage fluctuation the fuse get blow.

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This could be a problem with any of the capacitors....from the power supply to the FMT board. If you have the means to do so, I would check them all. But at the end of the day, even if you fix it, you are still going to have a MIT DLP POS. LOL! Sorry....Hope this helps, Chad

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I have sony lcd hd ready 50inch rear projector tv model number KDF-E50A12U tv comes on after couple minuets tv clicks off to stand by then red light in stand by flashs 3 times gos back to green repets

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I have a WS-55511 rear projection TV. We had a power outage in the area and the TV will not power at all. Could this be a blown fuse?

if the green power light just blinks that is one issue==========if the green power light does not come on at all suspect a fuse----follow the power cord (set unplugged) into the set and plug in ac fuse is right there.

If you have the blinking light that will not stop it means the DM unit in the set was damaged and that is expensive.

If you need more information or have questions let me know with a comment here.


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Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852

Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

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i'm not to sure if the fluid made any short circuit between components, because is an oily solution and don't have many conductor properties. (correct me if im wrong) but i suggest if you don't have electronic knowledge or skills, don't attempt to repair it yourself, its hard even for experts to remove all the connectors and will take several time to do it.

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There are several things that can cause it. You are best to have an expert technician come in and take some test on it in order to determine if it is from vertical blanking failure or something else. It is not easy to fix this yourself, if you have no experience, because there are a lot of parts that have to be removed before you can reach the components. It could be as simple as a loose connector ribbon or a bust capacitor, but it could also be more complicated. Hence, in my honest opinion, better get a qualified technician.

Hope that helps!

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Hitachi 60UX58B Comes on then goes back off.....

Yes, i just answered a post to another problem simular to this, it is the POWER SUPPLY, it was blown either from an electric surge, caused by storms or ground faults, or it was shorted. you need to get a new one, have a professional install it for you.

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Convergence amp ic bad
Or send to

good luck
please mark the post with a fixya

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