I have just fitted the second release bearing on the mg and bolted back the gearbox the release bearing is touching the pressure plate even though i have not yet bled the clutch the last release bearing broke apart after starting the car and squealing coming from the clutch i have fitted a new borg &beck pressure plate and clutch plates
I can't remember - it has been a long time since I've had my hands on one of those.
Mostly the clutches fitted with a carbon thrust bearing did not contact the pressure plate with any great force. The clutch was considered self-adjusting with a long-travel slave cylinder which has, I believe a light internal spring tending to push the piston out. With no residual pressure in the hydraulic line when the pedal is released the internal cylinder spring maintained the "adjustment".
When BMC, Leyland or Austin-Rover changed to ball-bearing clutch thrusts the thinking changed to clutch stops, return springs and adjustments though later they began to change again as other manufacturers found ballbearing releases and covers lasted longer when the bearing remained in contact and some systems used a fairly heavy preload spring to ensure it did so without chattering.
Carbon thusts are very fragile and should be treated like expensive crystal from the manufacture to the fitting and it should be ensured the release arm and fork are as good as they can be and the bearing swivels easily in the fork.
All all release systems; long life, low noise and satisfactory operation depends on the exact alignment of the engine and gearbox. I don't know if the 1275 used dowels as most manufacturers did and still do but earlier models had no dowels and instead used dowel bolts to ensure alignment.
These are special bolts made oversize by a few thousands of an inch fitted in certain reamed holes and they are such a tight fit lots of people think there is something wrong and either discard them or fit them somewhere else. That was exactly what I did as a young apprentice with the franchise and got a right royal rollicking from the foreman for doing so. He must have made the same mistake at sometime because he knew what I had done as soon as he tried the car.
I hope I have helped...
thank you all i can think of is that the spring in the slave cylinder is to strong and pushing too hard as there is no other way to hold back the fork could this be possible
I don't think that is your problem. Think of all the time a car spends with the driver's foot holding the pedal down while parked at junctions, low speed manouvering and suchlike, yet normally the carbon thrust lasts and lasts and lasts, typically for upwards of 40,000 miles.
That the last thrust broke as soon as you started the engine indicates the bearing was faulty (perhaps it had been dropped in transit) or you had made some sort of error by overlooking (or causing) some misalignment.
Was there dowels on your model and if not did you fit the dowel bolts in the correct place and tighten in the correct order?
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No it shouldn't touch. You might want to check and see if the clutch plate was installed the right way. If clutch plates are installed backwards, this will cause the tongs on the pressure plate to be pushed out further towards the bearing. And will squeal.
hi the clutch plates are right they can only fit one way and the flywheel face is shown i can push the rush rod back in the slave cylinder and release the bearing but i am afraid when i bleed the clutch the push rod will hold the release bearing against the pressure plate i have checked the fork that's okay. Whats holds the release bearing off the pressure plate
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