What can go up the chimney down but can't go down the chimney up

The arm on your umbrella is stuck and is broken and the arm will need replacement. It would be more convenient to purchase another umbrella than to try and repair the one that is broken.

We are seeing no umbrella, so it is hard for us to answer this question.
However, my friend and I are wood workers, and we also do plastics and metals.
The answer is yes, this can be done.
The bigger and the heavier the umbrella, the bigger & heavier need be the "cart".
God bless your efforts.

Not a complete answer but it might help to know the following.
On my umbrella the rope is wound around a pulley such that if you wind it down and keep turning the same way the rope will start to wind back up in the other direction on the pulley and the umbrella will lift again. Maybe the rope on yours is stuck in the middle somehow and when it catches the rope starts winding up in the other direction.

Also to hang strands of lights

Now that's a LOT of additional information. I hesitated to answer your question the way it was worded originally.... IF in fact it is a masonry chimney and originally built to burn wood, you should have a chimney sweep do a thorough inspection of the flue to ensure it is safe to use again. Flue temperatures, while burning wood, EASILY exceed 1200 degrees whereas natural gas flue temps are in the 450 degree range.

It also should have a clay tile liner and not be fabricated of brick only. The unsafe thing of an unlined brick chimney or a chimney with a severely cracked liner has to do with unburned gases condensing within the inner surfaces of the chimney. Some of those gases are moist and will condense on the inner surface and eventually have an unsafe build up that can be ignited by an oversized flame or excessive sparks causing a flue fire. During a flu fire, temperatures exced 2000 degrees and an unlined BRICK flue of that age could have lost some mortar allowing superheated gasses to seep into the crevices. Those superheated gasses then explode when igniged by the flue fire and either do extreme damage to the flue, blow the entire chimney apart or in the worst case scenario burn your house down.

I'm sure you've seen houses burnt and the chimney was left standing....but you have also seen damaged houses with the chimneys blown off the end of the house and laying in rubble toppled out into the yard. The latter visual picture was an example of the end result of the gasses exploding. If the chimney was inside the house instead of on the end of the house, the house would have been burnt also.

There is a lot to be careful about when heating with wood and to start off safely you need to have your chimney inspected and the gas components removed with the gas line capped EXTERNAL of the fireplace.

The answer is simple: the flue is left open so allow smoke to come out of the fireplace. You can by really simple contractions that lower flaps over the holes from the comfort of your living room. Try any home hardware store like Ace or Home Depot.

First, your chimney liner must be clean and intact. Then it will have to be lined with a flexible metal liner, that is the same diameter of the flue pipe coming off the stove, that will connect eventually to the stove. This line will provide the proper draw for the stove, as well as reduce the chance of chimney fires.In addition to the liner, there should be a weather tight chimney termination with a spark guard screen.

Hope this answered your question and thanks for choosing FixYa.

It is for sure a venting issue, depending on where you are located, it sounds like the local building code inspector was not involved for an inspecton of the furnace replacement. When the flue condensates like that, it is usually because the flue is the wrong size, usually to big,or it is dumped directly into a masonary chimney, and the chimney was not lined to the top.
I hope this answers your questions, please rate me and let me know if I can help further.
Sicerely,
Paul Gibson

You may be smelling other products of combustion but CO2 is a color-less/smell-less gas. A water heater should be vented thru 4" vent pipe to either a chimney or a wye which joins it with another appliance and a larger(size must be calculated) connector which connects to the chimney. There can be no reductions in size as you travel toward the chimney, and all pipe must slope at least 1/4"/foot up toward the chimney. Single wall vent pipe can be used unless it is less than 6" from anything flammable in which case type "B" vent may be used with a clearance of down to 1". If all this is correct your chimney may be over-sized or obstructed. Proper venting can be very complicated and technical and takes up most of most installation manuals for any fossil fuel appliance.

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