Starter draw amps kohler cv16s engine

check fuses first. then check starter solenoid for proper power and then this will lead you to either a safety switch issue or a power issue...

turn key on, pull pto switch... does pto engage, then your problem is at or after the key switch

Make sure all the battery cables are free of corrosion and are tight and also make sure your battery is fully charged.

Possible bad starter if the battery has 12.46 volts and the battery is charged to that voltage.
Maybe try to tap the starter while it tries to start in order to get the starter to turn. If that doesn't work, consider using an ammeter to measure the amps that the starter is drawing. If it doesn't draw much current, like 1 or 2 Amps, then it is a bad solenoid on the starter. If it draws a high amount of amperage like 75 to 125 Amps and doesn't turn then it's also a bad starter. It could be just a solenoid connected to the starter, but if it's like an automobile, changing the starter and solenoid together is the usual way of fixing a starting problem.

to test properly you will need a heavy duty induction amp meter ,if its drawing more than 180 amps renew the starter ,try a new heavy duty battery also i suspect the jump leads your using are no good either ,cheap made in china things

Hi,

If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.


If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.


A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.


Hope this helps,Good luck!!

I have a duetz-allis mower with 18hp. kohler eng. won't start, have new seloniod, new circuit breaker, getting fire to switch & out. Still won'tstart

Simplest test is to leave it on the engine, battery hooked up normally. Run the engine at normal full speed (not just idling) and use your voltmeter to measure the voltage across the battery with your DMM. If you measure 13.5 to 14 volts, your rectifier/regulator is probably OK.
It can't easily be tested off the mower. You'd need a source of AC at 24 volts to simulate the motor's stator winding, and a load that draws about 23 amps at 12 volts.
Don't forget a bad battery can cause failure to charge - it's not always the regulator.

make sure the cable ends attached to the side terminals of the battery are immaculately cleaned by a wire brush and baking soda and water.

If it still won't start with a new battery, it's likely the starter is bad.

However, you might want to check to see the amperage draw when trying to turn it over with an amp meter (inductive type).

If it draws 75 A or above and doesn't turn over, the starter is bad.
If it draws 0 A and doesn't turn over the starter's solenoid may be
not functioning.

May want to take it to Sears or Walmart to have th starting and charging system checked out.

Good luck.

When the amp meter reads 0, then it is no longer drawing amps and is fully charged.

i hope this was helpful,
matthew

Hello:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Bad Clutch/Neutral, Blade Engagement Safety Switch or a Bad Starter or Starter Solenoid.
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Then Check the Oil Guard Switch (if Applicable). Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>Use a Multimeter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Checking/Testing the Starter and Solenoid.
>>**(with the Spark Plug/s Removed) To Check the Solenoid and Starter, Once you are Sure the Battery is Fully Charged/New, then Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery (make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery).
>>Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter.
>>If the Starter Does Not Turn and you can turn the Engine by Hand, then the Starter is Bad.
>>If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid that has the Ign Wire Attached to it.
If the Solenoid Does Not Click, then a Safety Switch is Preventing the Starter System from Operating and the Safety Switch must be Replaced to Correct this Problem.
>>If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad.**
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)