Question about GE Microwave Ovens

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Clock sets. as soon as the microwave is turned on the 15A fuse burns out. All (3) interlock switches check fine. HVXfmr seems to ohm out fine. HV diode has been replaced. Any ideas? Can the magnatron be checked with an ohm meter?

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  • GE Master
  • 9,047 Answers

If it goes dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it goes dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html
(if bad, it will be shorted)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

Clock sets. as soon as the microwave is turned on - d:%5cele%5crepair%5cmicrowave%5cge_hotpoint%5cmini_manual_behind_grille_small.jpgdee77f7.jpg

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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Whirlpool microwave keeps opening high voltage diode


If you do not have any experience in the repair of microwave ovens do not engage in their repairs because it is one of the most dangerous household appliances and the consequences can be disastrous. According to your description, low voltage circuit (220V or 110V) works well (light, turntable...). Obviously the problem is in a high voltage (HV) circuit which is made up of the magnetron, HV diode (rectifier), HV capacitor and HV fuse or protect diode. Failure is in any of these components in "HV circuit" or sometimes in interlock switch assembly or PC Board.

First, you must be sure which diode is blowed, reactifier or protect diode.

To check magnetron following this procedure:

Discconect the mains supply.
Check that the capacitor is discharged (by resistor 100 ohm / 10W or more).
Discconect the magnetron.
Measure the resistence between the disconnected terminals (should be app. 0.5 ohm).
Measure the resistance between the supply terminals (both) and earth. The resistance should be infinite.

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Dado

Mar 12, 2015 | Whirlpool MT4155SPS

2 Answers

CS Code


cheak door hindge mechnizem

Oct 08, 2008 | Amana RC17 Microwave Oven

Tip

Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

2 Answers

CS Code


Inspect foil side of HV board for burned tracks toward lower side of board. If burned, check HV capacitors (High Voltage Capacitor Test Procedure) and HV transformers (High Voltage Transformer Test) for a short. Otherwise test other components as outlined above.
Solution: Replace defective components as necessary. If applicable, repair foil trace on HV board.
Hope that helps.........

Aug 29, 2008 | Amana RC17 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Why does ge microwave blows fuse when door is opened?


Inspect the door switches and the wiring in the light bulb circuit. If the problem is a door switch, it will probably be visibly broken, or there will be burn marks on it. It's also possible that the door switch bracket is bent or broken and allows the terminals to short to the oven frame. Check the lamp socket - if it is cracked or burned, it should be replaced.

Also look for signs of arcing or burn marks on the controller board, especially near the relays (usually black plastic boxes about 1" x 1' x 3/4' mounted near the wire terminals or wire harness connector).

As a general note, it is rare for a fuse to fail by itself. If you find a blown fuse, look for a cause before replacing it. This may prevent wasting another fuse.

Jul 01, 2014 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

My PVM2070SM1SS doesnt turn on or set clock but controll pad lights and exhaust fan and lights work secondary switches seem fine along with the 2 fuses can you help?


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

  1. Inspect the power cordUnplug the power cord and check for voltage at the outlet. Also inspect for damage, shorts, or burn marks that can be a possible safety hazard.
  2. Bad door switchIf your microwave does not work at all and you know everything is plugged in properly and the outlet is functioning, then also check the door hooks and the door release button. Using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check your terminals. When your microwave door is closed you should have a reading of zero. Once the door is open the reading should change to infinity. If these readings do not match up, replacement of the door switch is necessary.
  3. Blown fusesTo determine if your fuse has blown out, which may attribute to your microwave not running, you need to pull the fuse out using a pair of fuse pullers. Lay it down and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check both ends of the fuse in question. If you do not get a reading of zero, then you will need to replace the fuse.
  4. Bad fan motorLocate the fan and remove the leads. Again using the volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If an infinity reading is displayed, it means that the fan has gone bad and requires replacement.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/microwave-repair-help.html#1#ixzz2aSlPzBdA
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 28, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Can't get to heat anything can't seem to set clock first Hamilton beach model hbp90d23al any suggestions


Step 1:

see this steps and diagram and fix it. God bless you
Microwave Doesn't Heat

1)Diode




The high voltage diode converts the A/C power output of the transformer to D/C, doubling the voltage to nearly 5,000 volts. This high voltage powers the magnetron which emits the energy that cooks the food. If the diode burns out, a lower A/C voltage reaches the magnetron, which is not sufficient to power the magnetron. When the diode fails it is often visibly burned out. If it appears to be good, it can be tested with a volt-Ohm meter capable of testing diodes. High voltage diodes frequently fail and are one of the most common points of failure in a microwave oven. A regular meter with a diode checker will not work to check these diodes. You have to use a meter with a 9 volt battery or put a 9 volt battery in series with the diode to check it.

Door Switch




If the microwave does not heat, one of the door switches might be defective. Microwave ovens normally have three door switches, if any of them fail the microwave does not turn on and does not heat. Check the switches for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Magnetron




If the microwave oven doesn't heat the magnetron tube might have burned out. The magnetron uses high voltage, high current DC power to generate the microwave frequency that cooks the food. If the microwave oven is turned on when it is empty this can cause the magnetron to burn out. Once it is burned out it has to be replaced, it's not repairable.



High Voltage Capacitor




If the microwave doesn't heat the high voltage capacitor might be defective. The high voltage capacitor works with the high voltage diode to convert the output of the transformer to DC voltage and to double the output voltage. If the capacitor is burned out the entire high voltage circuit stops working properly. The high voltage capacitor can be checked with a special VOM meter which has a capacitance testing capability. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor can retain a charge of more than 3,000 volts and can injure or kill a person if not handled properly. Only trained technicians should perform this type of testin

High Voltage Transformer




If the microwave does not heat, the high voltage transformer might be burned out. Microwave ovens produce a very high voltage in order to power the magnetron antenna, which emits the energy that cooks the food. When a high voltage transformer fails it will usually arch and have a burning smell

Thermal Fuse




If the microwave doesn't heat the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Thermoprotector




If the microwave doesn't heat the thermoprotector may have tripped. This is a safety device to prevent the microwave from overheating. It can be tested for continuity to see if it's blown.

Step 2:

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Feb 07, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have the model FMAC101D1PS and now it's not heating. I press the minutes to heat, it run but it doesn't heat anyting.


Most likely causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in the HV area.



If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • For the various HV parts and how to test them follow this link: Microwave Repair Manual link.

A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.

Oct 21, 2010 | Frigidaire Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Model 721.64282 microwave/convection oven - microwave not heating and making a loud noise. convection oven works


No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:


  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.


If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

Oct 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.


sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?

Jan 05, 2008 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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