Which one do I use. Right or left hand rear brake calliper tool for scenic 2003?

Hi Godfrey Not sure which year your vehicle is however I'm assuming the piston will not go back. Does the hand brake cable attach to the rear of the calliper I.e. your vehicle does not have brake shoes and the calliper acts as the hand brake. If this is so the piston has to be wound into the calliper there is a special tool available to assist with this, can be purchased at a good accessory shop. Make sure you wind the piston fully home, and on completion pump the brake pedal up and down several times and then gently pull the hand brake up and down before you move the car. The only other 2 possible issues are the pads have worn down so much that the pistons have come out to far and have gone off centre in other words the piston is not centralised with the bore of the calliper. The second issue is the piston is just seized possibly caused by rust or corrosion. For both the latter issues I would advise the repair to be carried out by a qualified mechanic. Good luck

Hi Danny jack up the car and use axel stands or blocks for safety remove wheels and open the calliper s. if the park brake cable is attached to the back of the calliper you will need a brake wind back tool. If not the pistons on the calliper should push back to make room for the new pads. Next remove the calliper brackets and then the rotors and reassemble in reverse order. Before you let the car back down pump the brake until its hard then turn the wheel by hand to see that it is free. After a road test jack it up again and make sure the wheels are still free. Have fun. Regards Jim...

The problem with the rear brake is most likely with the caliper assembly. The one that is wearing out too fast is probably dragging too much (not releasing properly). I would recommend replacement of that caliper assembly. As far as the "grinding" goes, if you are referring to a noise that occurs when you push the steering wheel into the stops and hold it there, then yes, any kind of squeal or grind in that condition is normal. If is does it when actually driving and just turning right or left more that a few degrees, then there may be issues in the power steering pump or rack assembly.

make sure that the calliper body is free to move on the support pins
the pins are there to allow the calliper to centralize on the rotor
if the pins are seed up then when pressure is applied to the piston the calliper is pulled sideways but then keeps that pad in hard contact with the rotor
as there is no check valve in the master cylinder for disk brakes, there may be a problem in the compensating port for the disc section that is keeping the disc brake section on

yes, you can rent one from Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts, etc.

If it's like the 2003 The left-hand brake caliper piston retracts counter clockwise and the right-hand retracts clockwise.

with car on stands use punch to remove pad retaining pins pull out pads can be tight remove 2 calliper retaining bolts move calliper away from disc remove disc retaining bolts remove disc check hand brake shoes and clean look for adjuster between shoes if it has one back it of some models just have hand brake cabel adjustment clean and fit new disc secure adjust hand brake shoes using screw driver through wheel bolt hole clean refit calliper slowley push back calliper pistons fit new pads refit retaining pins do other side pump up brake pedal check and adjust handbrake if neededcheck brake fluid level

Do you mean back brake pads or the back brake callipers?
To change pads you need to use a rear brake pads changing tool to screw in the calliper piston or if you are experienced enough you could screw in the calliper with a two mm thick piece of metal sheeting that fits into the grove of the piston.
If you need to replace the whole calliper remove the hand brake cable first and clamp the flexible brake hose remove brake hose, remove the callier with cylinder and then remove the calliper holder. fit new holder pads and locks and the calliper with the piston and the brake hose and the hand brake cable. Bleed the brakes. Mike

did you open the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to leave;if so disconnect the brake hose.If that don't work I would think you have rust build up in the housing;recommend replace caliper

You will need to bleed all four corners, starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Your bleed procedure always goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, to the closest. By bleeding only the rear brakes, you've gotten air out back there, but not necessarily any air that might have moved farther forward. Bleed your rears again, and then move forward to bleed the fronts, and see if that helps.