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My side by side model TFX24PATAww completely fills up with ice is not defrosting in the freezer section. I replaced the clock twice and now the frige box is running a bit warm because the freezer is filling up with ice on the coils behind the panel. What is the next part to consider replacing on this 12 year old box with in reason. Jeff
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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp ..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
How to check
everything http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
you have a clogged defrost drain, remove the bottom basket, and freezer shelves to expose the screws for the back panel remove back panel,carefully chip away ice, and or use boiling water to melt the ice from the drain hose, check complete drainage by removing back panel behind frige at bottom and inspect that the water is draining completely into defrost pan. reoplace all parts.
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
if one of the panels in the fridge has frost on it, the evaporator coils may be iced up. this restricts the cold air flow. to defrost: empty the fridge and freezer, turn it off, remove the panel in the freezer that has the frost, use a hairdryer and defrost the ice buildup, sop up excess water, dry it up, replace the panel, turn it on (while it's empty), set the temp halfway, and close the doors. when the compressor turns off, fill the fridge. if the panels are frostless and the coils are warm, you may be out of refrigerant from a freon leak somewhere. it might be cheaper to replace the fridge.
If you replaced the "defrost timer", and the circulation fan runs ok before the ice buildup occurs, you will have to melt the ice so the panel will come off. Then, pull the back panel off and inspect to components. First, the defrost element and connections to it. If connections are good, disconnect 1 connector and check the resistance of the element itself with a ohmmeter. It should be 40-150 ohms, depending on the unit. If it is excessive or infinate, replace the element. If it is ok, leave the element disconnected and check the other component (defrost termination switch) which is clamped onto the evaporator coil and has two wires attached to it. It should read 0 to 2 ohms at room temprature, and no more than that as it is a temprature controlled switch. If it has excessive resistance, replace it. These are the only 2 components, aside from the defrost timer, that encompass the entire defrost circuit in most refrigerators.
Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.
wrong model # ,defrost problem. remove freezer panel, check heater, check limit switch while still covered in ice, if both ohm infinity, replace defrost timer.
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