Maytag Model DG309 gas dryer thermostat wiring color code schematic.

Typically there is a wiring diagram inside console area or on back of dryer.

the Maytag dryers would have the diagram either INSIDE the control panel, OR on the back of the control panel. Neither are color coded as there never was a color coded diagram ever printed. The diagrams do list the color of wires and show where they start and terminate. That is all a service tech would require to troubleshoot. If the diagram has been removed, you could try an online search.

I don't have a Maytag schematic handy but there should be one on or in the dryer. Trace the clock wiring back until until you get voltage. I am betting one leg of the time motor goes to the drum motor (Gray wire maybe) and the other leg to the dryness sensor module (brown wire). Check these wires against both Line and Neutral. That should tell of it's the module or the motor block.

The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.

Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.

Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

If you are connecting a power cord with a 3-wire configuration, you match the corresponding wire colors from the power cord to the wires on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. The correct color-code is as follows:

RED - HOT (120VAC)
BLACK - HOT (120VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0VAC)*

*There should be a ground strap or ground wire connected to neutral at the terminal block in a 3-wire configuration.

NOTE: If the wires are not color-coded, the outer two wires (Left and Right) are the HOT leads. The center conductor is Neutral.

If you have any questions, you can refer to this link for further explanation:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

This explains the difference in 4-wire and 3-wire configurations. I hope this helps you.

Always disconnect electricity before beginning this process.

All the 4 wire cords I have seen are color-coded. The white wire goes to the middle terminal, the green wire goes to any screw you can reach that goes into the metal case of the dyer. The red and black go to the outside terminals of the block and while it doesn't matter which color goes to which terminal I usually follow the color code of the interior dryer wiring that already exists. Good Luck.

I believe that this part is a thermostat. If im not mistaken, it shouldnt matter which wire goes on which prong. Think this is a reversable thermostat. It should have just 2 prongs correct? Jim