SOURCE: Asko W620 washing machine not spinning
Sounds like the motor brushes need to be cleaned or replaced. Take the back off the washer, remove the motor and gently scrape the excess carbon or debris off the brushes with a pocket knife. I did this and it ran well for about 50 loads before building back up. I am ordering new brushes now because when I checked the brushes last week they were obviously worn more than 4 weeks ago.
SOURCE: Asea (Asko) Cylinda 12000 Washing Machine Spin Problem
No reset. Carbon brushes are worrn out. Consider changing the bearings while you have the motor apart. Se http://www.nettoparts.co.uk/shop/frontpage.html for spares.
Best regards, Dag Gulbrandsen, Norway
SOURCE: asko 10625 will not spin
it is probably the belt, take off the back of the machine and look at the black rubber belt that spins the cleaning drum. The belts break after about 5 years, you can get a replacement belt at you local Asko dealer, I recall that is was pretty easy to change, like doing a bike chain, Talk to you Asko dealer about how to change it.
SOURCE: asko 10505 washer will not spin
Hi, 2 things to check for. Obstruction in the drain pump or faulty drain pump, brushes in the motor worn out. The easiest way to determine the pump issue is answer this question. Does it drain ? Next, turn the timer to the drain/spin cycle, obviously it should drain & spin and advance to "off". The next thing with these 10505 asko is to see if the drum rotates in both directions in the wash/agitate portion of the cycle. You can just select the short wash for this (I forget if it's #4 or #5) If not, it's worn brushes. However, you'll have to make sure the armature isn't damaged before simply installimg new brushes. We can cross that bridge when we get there. Let me know. Hope that helps, though those are just the most common problems there could be others. Good Luck
SOURCE: Asko Washer/Dryer (WCAM 1812); Dryer not working.
Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!
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