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My Trane central air contioning that services the second floor of my house is not pumping out cool air. Checked the unit outside and found ice forming on the piping that contacts to the Trane AC uni. WAs told there is probably a leak in the system. Had a leak fixed last summer, found the leak by injecting dye. Is there possibly another leak????? What is the best way to handle this situation???

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Hey there, the first thing that you should do is identify the exact reason that the system is freezing up. First, let it thaw for probably a couple of hours to make sure that all the ice is off the indoor unit. If you leave the fan run (turn the fan to on on the tstat) it will help it thaw faster. After it is thawed, turn on the ac ad let it run for 2 mins or so. If the larger refrigerant line that is covered in black insulation is very cold and starting to frost up (may take a little while depending on how bad the problem is but should turn very cold quickly) this indicates you have an airflow issue. Probably a dirty fliter, coil or fan blades. The scoops in the fan can accumulate dirt and decrease efficiency. If the pipe is not cool at all, should be around 55 degrees or so, warmer if the house is hot( 80 degrees or above) then you are probably low on charge. If it is warm, make sure that the smaller refrigerant line is warm too and there is no ice or sweat on the small line in the outdoor unit. If it turns out that you have a leak, finding it is sometimes very difficult. The refrigerant carries oil with it as it travels through the lines and the oil will accumulate at the leak and collect dirt making it visible. There are electronic leak detectors that can make the process easier. A good place to look in residential systems is in the indoor coil, where the u bends are and pass through the sheet metal that holds the coil together. The last thing I do after fixing a leak is to pressurize the whole system with nitrogen to an exact pressure (the higher the pressure the quicker a leak will be evident) and make sure that the pressure remains constant. Holding for 5 or 6 hours under about 200 psi with no drop would make me feel comfortable that there are no more leaks. If you do find a leak in the indoor coil and then another pops up, it may be better to replace it at this point. Let me know what you find out or if you need anything else.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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