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Kenmore 300 won't start spinning after water fills

Kenmore 300 - after the water fills up, the machine just hums and the washing cycle does not begin

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  • kamala_dg Jul 23, 2009

    Thank you for the response to the Kenmore 300 issue with the humming after the water fills. We thought it was the switch, however, the water does drain. To give more detail, once the water fills and the humming starts, if we rock the machine, the cycle will begin. Do you still think this is the motor coupling? or could it be something else? I thought possible a balance issue since the machine starts the normal cycle if we rock the machine? Does this still sound like the motor coupling?

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If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Take note of your symptoms:

1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.

2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 23, 2009

    Check your lid switch to make sure it is not loose, first. The rocking may actually be causing a loose switch to make contact, then start working.



    I would also still take a look at the motor coupling to make sure it isn't bound up with anything. It is common for the rubber bushing to start to come apart when they go bad. Part of the bushing could be jamming against something, causing the coupling to stick.



    Last of all, you may have a drive motor that is beginning to fail. The motors are generally not serviceable (other than a start capacitor that you can replace). The motors can wear with age and bind up. The instructions I gave you for the motor coupling include how to remove the motor.



    Let me know if this helps you.

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