Question about Broan-NuTone CV350 Central Vacuum
Some units have an on/off switch on the power unit itself. Check to make sure that is not turned on. Unplug your power unit and remove the 2 low voltage wires (not the power cord itself) . The low voltage wires start at the unit and run throught your home and attach to each hose inlet. They are usually attached to the unit by simple wire terminals or wire capped to small wires coming out. Just unlug the terminals or unscrew the wire caps and pull the connections apart. Plug your machine back in. If it still comes on the problem is the relay or circuit board/switch/ relay assembly inside the unit. If it doesn't come on with the low voltage wires unattached then you may have two wires touching somewhere in the low voltage wiring.
Posted on May 22, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: continuous running
Central vacs have relays in them, some stand alone, others mount on a circuit board. A stuck relay causes this type of problem. At the unit disconnect the low voltage wires, plug in your unit, does it still come on, if it does then you have a bad relay. If it doesn't then you have a problem somewhere in your low voltage wiring. One of the outlets, the wires may be touching or there is a staple casuing a short.
Posted on Mar 06, 2008
If the central vacuum tank will not turn OFF even with the switch in the “OFF” position, then the low-voltage wires should be disconnected from the tank. If the tank continues to run and still will not turn off, then most likely the relay inside is defective (but it could be a defective and/or shorted ON/OFF switch). If with the low-voltage wires disconnected the tank is able to then be turned off with the switch, then there is a short in the low-voltage wires or a hose is plugged into an inlet somewhere. ~ TTURAMBAR
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: Central Vac will not turn on.
These problems are nearly exclusively caused by a bad circut board and replacing it is the fix. Bad boards can cause many different effects so its nearly impossible to be sure. The 9v signal wire is not enough to short out an entire unit so it is unlikely the hose. If it is a direct connect system and you are pulling power from the 110 somehow that would cause main unit problems but that is unlikely at best. Sounds like a failed board to me.
Best of Luck
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
SOURCE: AirVac ZX6000 won't turn off!
There is a relay board inside your unit which is most likely bad. If you have the make and model, you can contact me and I can order the board for you(pending your mechanical abilities). If not, contact your local central vacuum installation company. www.thevacdudes.com
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
Please clarify that we are talking about the central vac LED/switch panel panel and plugging it into a 110 V wall receptacle.
If I understand when you unplug from the power source ,then plug back in the green LED comes on, looking normal ? But when you manually activate the switch on the motor housing of the vac itself the vac does not start and the LED goes out, so no green or red LED at that point?
If this is the case , Kenmore CV's built approx 5 years ago (MADE by EUREKA) and prior had a circuit board with attached cord (as opposed to detachable) which was prone to relay failure. There were several symptoms, most common was that the relay on that switch panel /circuit board would fuse on and the vac would continue to run when the hose was detached from the wall.However some I worked on from that era had exactly the same symptom you describe. If your unit is between 5 and 10 years old and this sounds accurate, you can unscrew this curved side panel relay with one philips screw. Inside on the PCB will be an L shaped black or white 24volt relay, generally rated at 10 amps. The replacement board or relay will be rated at least 24V/ 15 amps or more. If you can isolate your motor and test it separtely with a power cord or meter , the realy/board will be the only control componnet left.
If you have a small tipped soldering IRON, not a gun, you can generally find a replacement relay to rebuild the board for about $6 at an electronics parts store. Otherwise you will need to replace the control board itself, anywhere form $45 to $70 plus service call if you have a tech come out to the house, and the tech will just unscrew , detach wires and replace the board, no repair , approx 15 minutes work. This will likely cost over $100.
Please post back with your results
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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