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I would check and see if there is water pressure at the water supply line and at the supply line as it connects to the unit.
if there is water pressure there then check and see if a lead to the water supply solenoid is connected if it is that is good.
to check snd see if it is a bad part turn the water on to it and fire up the dishwasher and put your hand on the body of the solenoid and one should feel some vibration
Ok, this problem is going to be fixed from the back of your refrigerator.. Follow the water lines down to the double solenoid located generally on the bottom of the unit. This solenoid has a double coil and double water inlets and outlets. One is for the ice maker and on is for the water. They are molded together as one unit. There will be two wire connectors that power this water valve. Turn off water supply and remove this solenoid valve. Most new units have quick release couplings on the water lines. Just push down or in and pull and the line come right out. Older models have Flare nuts and require a wrench to remove. Take this part to local appliance dealer. There are universal solenoid water valves that fit all refrigerators, or go online and order the valve with the correct model and part number. Personally I will pay a few dollars more so I can get the unit back together. This will fix your water and ice problems, often times solenoid sticks and the other side does not. Good luck I hope this solves your problem. Please post a solved comment on fixya, so I receive credit for the solve. This will increase my ranking on fixya.com That is how I get paid. By knowing I am helping someone!!!!
The washer doesn't pump water in--plumbing water pressure forces it in when the water inlet solenoid opens the valve. Check the water inlet solenoid--they are a common failure point. Look under the front of the washer behind the panel to find it--just trace the water inlet line. It connects directly to it. The valve can be stuck shut or, more commonly, the plastic coil form of the solenoid disintegrates. In any case, just replace it. Don't forget to shut off the water supply valve under the sink before you start work. Hope this helps!
could be a couple things first is water on.then check to see if sol valve is energizing start the fill cycle put a small screwdriver on the solenoid valve is it magnetized.if so check line strainer to see if it is plugged or valve could be limed up.if not magnetized coil could be bad,or could have got wet fuse might have blown.remember this is 24v coil I have seen some do it yourselfers put 120v coils on this will not work.couple things to check .need more info.
My experience with these units is that if the bin thermostat (brown wires) is not at a below freezing temp you will not have the correct voltage at the water valve solenoid (red and white wires) You can safely jumper across the bin thermostat long enough to see if you get a higher voltage on the water valve solenoid. If you do then the thermostat is either not cold enough or has failed.
Water valve coil should read 280 Ohms
The bypass valve coil should read 380 Ohms You may be reading the bypass coil vs the water supply coil.
You can probably get a service manual if you use this page for a temp login request:
Most likely the fill solenoid is not opening may be burned coil or the seat is just not opening. shut water to unit off, open solenoid by removing 4 bolts holding top of soleniod on, open water supply if water is making it to that point you either have a bad soleniod or no power to the coil when call for water is made. check coil with meter and replace parts as needed
It sounds like a bad solenoid valve. Shut off the water to the dishwasher and disconnect the water supply line at the dishwasher. Caution, there will be water there...
Open the water supply valve and try to pass water through the line into a container. If you get water there, the solenoid valve is needing attention. make sure that there isnt bebris in the solenoid valve. Make sure that the wires are fully connected. If they are, and the valve was clear, I'd test or replace the valve. This is the most likely fault. If this didn't fix the problem, look into the float switch, making sure that it operated correctly.
The water valve may look fine but the solenoid may not be opening to allow water in. You said that everything else works fine except no water supply to the dishwasher. This sounds like a bad soleniod valve. Check for continuity on the valve with an ohms meter after you start it. Be careful.
The water supply connects to the dishwasher water valve, two wires are connected to the solenoid. An OHM meter will tell if this is good. If good, set meter to volts and see if 110 is getting to the solenoid, you will have to turn the timer to the point where water should be coming in.