How do i test the alternator on kipor ig 2000 what voltage should i see before the inverter unit also need to know how it all works as its all in bits due to someone trying to fix no spark problem

http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . There are three wires connected to the alternator , should have B+ voltage , if not the alternator will not work . Do you know how to test for B+ voltage ? You can go to you tube an watch video's on charging system testing . Good luck !

I have no experience of your car but starting and charging circuits are fairly universal.

For a lot of years the charging system of the majority of cars and trucks only comprised an alternator connected by a single wire to the battery live and an "earthy" terminal to connect the ignition, battery or charge light wire. The alternator had to be grounded and some manufacturers mounted them in rubber bushes so a good earth or ground lead had to be bolted to the alternator casing.

There have been some slight variations. Some alternators were "battery sensed" rather than "machine sensed" and needed an extra wire to provide voltage to the internal regulator and the Japanese used electro-mechanical regulation for a long time after the rest of the world adopted internal electronic regulation. These modern times have brought more charging developments with the addition of intelligence, black boxes and the like.
A few of the older machines (AC Delco, Lucas) had an extra large spade terminal at the rear which needed to be grounded. These machines caused some confusion as to a casual inspection they appeared identical to other machines where the terminal was live and should not be grounded.

If your alternator has the required ground and live and the ignition light is working and the wire connected and any other sensing wire is connected and providing the required voltage the charging system cannot fail to work if the alternator itself is good.

I suggest you sort out your brake lights which is probably a faulty or maladjusted switch or misplaced or shorted wire, most likely in the region of the switch.
If it is the switch, disconnecting it should kill the lights.
After that it will be time to double check the connections to the alternator and verify each wire has the correct potential.

Easy way to check with a voltmeter. Check battery voltage on the battery terminals with key off, engine off, and then check voltage with engine running.
Engine off, a good battery should have voltage between 12.6 volts and 12.9 volts. With engine running, battery voltage should be a minimum of 13.5 volts, somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. This would indicate the alternator is good and is charging the battery. If voltage is less than 13.5 volts, if it only shows same volts as when not running, the alternator is not working right. Take it off and have tested for free at a parts store. It could be a bad alternator or it could be that the wiring between alternator and battery has a problem. If alternator tests good, start looking into the connections between alternator and battery.
Does your battery or alternator light stay on when engine is running? This would indicate a charging system problem. Time for the voltmeter test.

I think your Toyota bit the dust.

i hope this helps.
terminal B must be hot at all times.
terminal IG must be hot on ignition on only
if terminal S is present, then must be always hot

Usually the battery eventually goes dead. The alternator needs to be able to raise a correct system voltage, measured at the battery teerminals, of 12.6 or so,....... to 13.8 to 14.5 volts, measured at 2000 RPM.
The alternator also has some components, called diodes, that fail. these are harder to detect, it really takes a scope, to see their electrical output.
A diode is a one way valve for electricity, letting current one way, but not the other, this converts alternating current (ALTernator) into direct current (the plus and minus of your battery and systems of your car). When the diodes fail, current is leaked during shutdown, and then the alternator cannot fully recharge, due also to the diode.

So, Start with the voltage measurements. If you acheive the output voltage, certainly the alternator is working. It takes loading equipment for the more comprehensive tests that follow. Often a parts store will hook up testers and test this stuff for FREE.

You shoulld expect more than 12.8 volts from the alternator up to nearly 14 volts when charging a low battery. The battery can only show the amount of voltage your alternator is sending to it after being used for a while. I would suggest that you have the battery tested & recharged completely, your voltage will be above 12 volts and if it returns to below that , you will know your alternator is not charging. Also, if you test the output of the alternator and see it is below 12 volts after the battery is fully charged at 12+ volts you will have confimed the problem also.

good luck.

change the ignition module for a NEW one ,not a secondhand one

If your "battery" light on the dash is going on and staying on the alternator is definitely faulty, either the diodes or the wiring. However, if the light doesn't come on when you turn the ignition key to "IG" position - befort it starts - check that the bulb is ok. The alternator won't work if the bulb is dead.

that is telling the voltage is ether to high or to low i know that autozone has a free test for battery and charging system i would have it tested