SOURCE: fault showing e1,possible faucet problem
WERE THE DISHWASHER CONNECTS TO THE WATER, TYPICALLY UNDER THE KITCHEN SINK, TURN THE HANDLE COUNTER CLOCK-WISE.
SOURCE: Code E1
E1 or E2
Thermistor Failure
The dryer
will not operate if the exhaust temperature drops below 18 degrees F.
or exceeds 250 degrees F.
When the thermistor circuit is open (>50K ohms), the error code E1 flashes
in the display.
When the thermistor circuit is shorted (<500 ohms), the error code E2
flashes in the display.
Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.
Take the top off the dryer and inside you'll find the "tech sheet." It has
instructions for removing the front panel and locating the thermistor.
SOURCE: My Maytag 5000 front leader
We had the same exact problem. Service tech came out and diagnosed bad pressure switch, Part # W1015652. Swapped it for a $135 new one and it seems to work just fine now.
This would have been an easy fix for me to make had I known what to look for. Unplug and shut water, remove top cover, follow small diameter (1/4"?) black tube up from wash drum to where it plugs into the plastic pressure switch housing. Remove switch from its bracket, unplug wire harness and black tube, and replace.
Service tech said that this is due to using too much detergent, suds will creep up into the pressure tube from the wash drum and get into the small circuit board inside the pressure switch housing. He also recommended against using Kirkland Signature brand detergent even though it has the HE emblem on it. Best to use one of the major brands and only 1 to 1.5 tablespoons at most.
A google search for "Maytag 5000" reveals that this is a major problem because it is the 5th search result. "Maytag 5000 problems" search shows that this is the #1 problem with these washers.
SOURCE: Maytag Maxima front load washer "master reset"?
To start, E01 and F06 means that your main central control board (CCU) and the motor control board (MCU) are not communicating with one another properly. The motor control board is located under the tub mounted to the floor of the washer. The CCU is mounted under the top panel of the washer and is the part with about 100 wires going into it. You'll want to remove the top panel and the lower front panel to check the wire connections and make sure they are all secure. If everything looks good, then you just have to somewhat guess which control board you want to replace first, either the MCU or the CCU. The problem is that there is no way to test and determine which part is faulty so it's just a guessing game. That's what makes this one of the worst errors to get. I generally replace the CCU first as that is the part that shakes around a lot more during spin and it's the first place that the power goes from the power cord if there is any fluctuation in power, so it makes since that this part fails more than the mcu.
There is no Master reset. The only thing you can do is unplug for 1 minute then plug back in.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/george_083af2f0afc0328b
SOURCE: what does the code F7 E1 mean on a maytag bravo x washer
this part MIGHT fix it. wpw10006355 or might not. look on http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/
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