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Posted on Jul 26, 2016

How the main 3 wiring plugs connect

Model td4100w the top 3 wires were unplugged and we cant figure which way they go back on

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 150 Answers
  • Posted on May 07, 2008

SOURCE: wiring 4 wird dryer plug to 3 wire 10/3 for 220 welder

the four wire plug seperates the neutral and ground. the three wire just piggybacks the ground to the neutral. so just get a three wire cord that fits the 220 plug on the generator and install it on your dryer make sure to attach the ground correctly for your three wire setup

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Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 22, 2009

SOURCE: wires came unplugged from behind control knob

Below is the link to the wiring diagram to your dryer, it should help some. In addition what I can tell you is that most appliance components have initials next to the connections that indicate what color wire is supposed to be connected to them, this is where the diagram should help. In cases of things like switches, buzzers, thermostats, things that only have to do with circuits being open or closed they will not have an initial so therfor it doesn't matter what wire goes to what connection. Post again if you need more help. http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/frigidaire-parts/Frigidaire-Dryer-Parts/Frigidaire-Parts-GLER331AS2/Frigidaire-Parts-50169.cfm

Anonymous

  • 331 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer model 86683100. I need to change

Yeah, red and black go to the outside terminals, white in the center and green goes to the cabinet. What I do is hook up the red, white and black, then I place the green between the terminal block cover and the frame and screw it in tight.

SG

Anonymous

  • 149 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 12, 2009

SOURCE: Replace a 3 wire power cord with a 4 wire power cord.

red on one end, black on the other, white in the middle, green to cabinet ground.

Anonymous

  • 1922 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 05, 2009

SOURCE: 10-3 w/ ground wiring diagram

your 2 hots phase wires RED and BLACK need to go to the L1 and L2 terminals,the white goes to the "N" neutral terminal and green or green w/yellow stripe is case safety ground---now at the breaker the RED/BLACK are connected under each one of two screws on the breaker the white goes to the NEUTRAL BUS BAR on the palel surface where all the white wires are already, also the green goes to the neutral bus bar,this only applies if this is the MAIN house power panel, is you wire it to a sub box panel then the neutral must be isolated from the sub panel chassis and ground can still be connected to panels case

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Wire diagram for craftsman 10" table saw

Hi there.
Prior to plug it try this.From your 3 prong grounded plug trace it up to your saw were you should have a black and a white from the same wire's end.Now the two whites are probably from the reset that you haven't replaced?Write back to let me know if this is right and I'll proceed.
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How to fix a Kenmore chest freezer model #255.19502010

Kenmore model 255.19502010 seems to have this problem where it will not get cold anymore, but it is a $12 solution and and easy wiring job. Easy like if you know colors and how to plug things in you should be able to do it. Get a Supco 3 n'1 Start (model RCO410) for a 1/4-1/3 hp compressor on ebay or Amazon. This one device replaces 3 different components (relay, overload and start capacitor) that all have a tendency to fail. When it arrives, make sure the frezer is unplugged, remove the metal panel on the side of the freezer. You will see a large black orb almost the size of a football, that is the compressor. On the left side there is a black plastic box that covers the connections on the side of the compressor. Open that up and you will find another black plastic thing plugged into the compressor that has a bunck of wires plugged into it. Pull it loose of the compressor by pulling straight back or gently prying it away with a flat screwdriver. You will see that it is plugged into 3 metal prongs that stick out of the compressor. You will see that all the wires go back to a Cylinder shaped device about 1.5 inch diameter and about 5 inches high it is secured to the bottom rail with a single bolt. Remove the black cylinder and all other pieces that were plugged into the compressor. You should be left with a white and black wire coming from the dial selector on the front. Follow the directions on the package of the SupcoBy connecting the white wire to the lower left prong on the compressor, the Black wire to the top center prong and the red wire to the bottom right prong. Connect the other 2 black wires to the black and white wire coming from the dial with the enclosed wire nuts. Put the new 3 in 1 next to the compressor andplug in your freezer to test. If it gets cold then unplug it and secure the new 3 n1 with a ziptie, duct tape' screw' or some other way (do NOT screw into the 3 n 1 just through the hole in the top.)

If this does not fix your freezer then put it on craigslist for a fermentation chamber for home-brewers and home wine makers because your compressor is probably shot.

One note: while I was repairing mine I took the dial thermostat out and int eh process unplugged one of the connection. The first time I plugged in my freezer it did not turn on but the green light was on. If this happens to you inspect all the connections and make sure they are on tight.
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Main 30 amp fuse keeps blowing when i plug the 4 wire fuse top back on after replacing 30 amp fuse. any suggestions

under your seat there is a bunch of wires 3 of the yellow i think wires goes to a pigtail thats the wiring harness for your stator and rectifier i had 03 1100 spirit shadow and 1 day i was riding and it jus quit on me i finally got it home broke it down n noticed the fuse kept popping every time i changed it then i found the melted pigtail looking for a short so i cut pigtail out straight wired each wire an never had a problem since.
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I CANT GET INTERNET ON MY WII I HAVE A WIRED ROUTER BUT I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET DSL WORKING PLEASE HELP!

Hi,
First off we have to make sure that your unit is properly connected to your router.
Note : Please note that Non-Nintendo manufactured USB LAN adapters will not work with the Wii console system.
1) Unplug your modem first for about 90 seconds and then plug it back in before continuing.
Note : You need to unplug the cable going to your computer when you wish to connect your Wii console online.
2) Insert the Wii LAN Adapter into the USB port on the back of the Wii console. The Wii should be turned off when you do this
3) Connect an Ethernet cable from your wired router to the Ethernet port on the Wii LAN Adapter.
4) Turn on your Wii and go to the "Wii Main Menu," then select the Wii icon (on the bottom left)
5) Select "Wii Settings" then "Wii System Settings"
6) Scroll to page two (using the arrow on the right) and select "Internet."
7) Select "Connection Settings." and then "Connection 1." ( connection 1 should say " None" if it says otherwise, click on Connection 1 and choose " Clear Settings")
8) Select "Wired Connection." then "OK" - It will now run a conncetion test
If the connection test is successul, it will do an update and will ask you if you agree to the User agreements. After agreeing to the terms, that's it. You should now be online.
I hope I was able to help. Hoping to hear good results.
All the best to you Mr. Edwards.
Cheers :)
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Half the screen doesn't work. It goes black sometimes, and sometimes that same half, the right side, has vertical color lines. The tv is only 6 months old. The problem actually went away for a while...

You need to go into the back of set and look for the wire connection to the board that is top center (looking from the back of the set). The wire plug will be about 1 and a half to 2 inches wide with several wires on it. Carefully unplug the wire going to that board and take a pencil eraser and clean the contacts gently and carefully. Plug it back up. The wire mentioned will come from the main board (with all the jacks and connections).
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My GE side by side Model # GSS20IEPA has frost on

Is the fan in the freezer working ? May have to press the light switch in to test . If not , main control board is probably bad . not the fan moter . Pull refrigerator out and remove the small 10"X13" metal cover . Unplug refrig first . Then remove the blue plug with 3 wires attached to it . The wire sequence on the plug looks like this : wire 1,wire 2,space wire 3.
Use an insulated jumper wire with both ends stripped and insert one end into wire 2 and the other into wire 3 . Plug refrig back in and look in freezer at the bottom . If the heater and defrost thermostat are good , the a red glow should appear . No red glow , either bimetal or heater is bad . Most likely heater pt# WR51X10101 . Do not forget to reinstall the blue plug with refrig unplugged or could cause main board dammage .
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Speaker issues

You have to run wires and antenna wire to trunk from head unit pull down the flap where the amp is and unplug the factory plug from the stereo think box is what i call it its the unit in front of the amp you will need to unplug the larger of the plugs it has like 10 wires in it and then unplug the antenna wire and you will connect it to the antenna wire you you ran back to the trunk do not splice any wires if you get a wiring kit for it it should have evrything you need
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Kenmore front loader

F11 is an error code that appears when the main control board up top is not communicating with the motor control board on the bottom. Unfortuneately, there is not a test for customer to do to test where the problem lies. The only thing a customer can do is check the connector going between the two boards to see if the connection has come loose. First, drop the lower front panel (3 #20 torx screws along the bottom) On the left hand side you will see some blue, pink and green wires going to a white plastic looking box. This is your motor control board. Unplug and plug back in the connection making sure to not get the wires turned around as it can plug into the board both ways. Next, take the top off the machine. (3 #20 torx screws on the top rear of the machine) Again, unplug then plug back in the 3 blue wire connector on the left hand side of your main control board (white box all of the way at the top in the center). If the problem still doesn't clear, you will need to replace one of the two boards. Again, I have not heard of a way to test the boards themselves. The problem usually comes from the board on the top.
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Code

jc, First check to see if the door lock pin is broken. This will be the little black actuator just above the switch. If that is ok, remove the top by removing the 3 torq screws on the tops back side. Slide the top off toward the back. Look at the main board in back on the right side. The second and third harness from the right are the door lock main switches. Reset these harness's into the board (unplug and plug back in). The harness that is 5 from the right will be the door lock solenoids, do the same. This is a 3 wire harness, if you have a ohm meter wires 3 to 2 two left ones should read 60 ohms. Wires 3 to 1, each end should read 60 ohms. This will ohm out the lock solenoid. Getting back to the first part, you can use a toothpick to plug the actuator switch temp. if that is broken, Catriver..post back.
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