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Huskee 25 hp lawn tractor with briggs & stratton motor wont start

I have a Huskee 25 hp lawn tractor with a briggs and stratton motor. i have replaced the starter solenoid as the tractor will not start. i now get a click from the solenoid but that is all. could the starter be bad? i cannot find my manual. i also understand there are switches that can keep it from starting, but do not know where they are.

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Most all manufacturers have the Users Manuel available on line you will need the Make and Model to pick the correct one. Have you replaced the battery. It can show the correct voltage but have no cranking amps. I believe if the solenoid is trying to engage the Dead Man switches are closed. With the starter disconnected from all power sources do the teeth on the starter turn or are they locked up? If they refuse to move do you have an Auto Zone around or another parts store or electrical engine repair store that can test the starter. Make sure the mowing deck is not engaged while you are trying to start the engine. I hope these rudimentary suggestions help.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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I had the same problem and thought my starter was bad, I got some advise from a friend that i should try adjusting the valves, I did that and mine starts fine now. hopefully this helps you

Posted on Oct 06, 2012

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I had the same situation with a no start condition. My 25HP Briggs (401 hours) would not even crank. I tested the battery (12.53 VDC) and tested each of the interlock switches (seat, brake and PTO) only to find that these were good. I replaced all three of these last year as this mower was acting funny at start-up and 2 or 3 times during mowing. I would have to jump on the seat to get it to start or to get blades to start (suspecting PTO clutch, (original)). I read that my selenoid probably was the result of my no crank situation (this thing looked awful with rust). I tested it and it tested bad on several different tests. I put a new one on and same result, NO CRANK. I sat there on the seat and wondered what my next step was and I thought I would just take the top of the engine apart to follow wires and to look at stator, regulator and coils (2 on this engine). Coils had good spark as I used a drill to turn engine. I found plenty of rust on the flywheel and lightly sanded it clean. Put it back together to again NO CRANK. I had read that the ground wires might be suspect on a no crank situation so I started at the battery and worked back on the - NEG side. Right off the large AWG black wire was a smaller black wire going to a pigtail and into the selenoid that had a connector that looked funny. This was under the battery and behind the engine (hard to see). It looked like it was not square as it should be. I unbolted the battery end and the other end of the frame to get some slack in this wire. when I pulled the wire through the other side of the engine, I saw that this connector (no diode or fuse in this connector)(just a plain old connection)(why it was here?). This connector was melted with the inside metal falling out. I thought :) :) :), is this my issue? I went called and went to the local hardware store and spent .74 cents on a male and female connection and fused this wire together and bolted the battery and frame back to the larger wire. YIPEEE it started and quite easy. This was probably the easiest start I have had in 5 years (I purchased with 260 hours).
We always think it is something larger or more complex, but this has taught me to check the wiring first. I am not upset at replacing this selenoid due to it's age and it did test bad. The new selenoid tested good with the same tests.
I hope this helps others with a no crank situation.

Posted on Jun 07, 2013

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I betcha all of the mowers, Huskee 23 or more hp, large deck (mine is 50 inches) are hard to start. With this big an engine, Huskee should have used #4 wire from ground to to a heavier solenoid and to the starter. The wire I just replaced was a little light. 'Got hot. What's more, even a heavy duty lawn and garden battery has to be red hot to consistently start the engine. I just put mine back together (in the rain) with HEAVY #4 wire and a heavy duty solenoid. It works fine. The starter may be marginal, but it works fine right now.

Posted on Aug 17, 2010

  • stephen82709 Aug 18, 2010

    A little bit of additional info! My tractor was starting ... occasionally ... with the original wiring. But it always sounded like it had a low battery. I took a voltmeter and measured the voltage at the starter while trying to start it. 6.2 volts! No good. Then I measured the voltage drop from across the battery itself. I realized that a lot of the loss was in the wiring. I'd replaced the end connections. So it seemed like a good idea to beef up the high current wiring and put a heavy "ford-like" solenoid in place of the light weight one. I'd replaced the ignition switch prior to this and checked the general wiring. The 4 position ignition switch is the source of a lot of problems itself. 14 bucks at Sears.


    Changing out the battery cables with #4 wire and solenoid is an extreme measure, but it is not that hard to do and is worth the trouble. Better than constant getting embarrassed by a tractor that will not start.

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