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Re: defrost heater voltage
Hi, Yes there should be 120V when the defrost cycle is on. If not, chack the bi-metal switch and see if it has continuity on it. It must be tested while it is cold. If there is an open circuit, change the by-metal switch. You can try and bypass the bi-metal switch and put the cycle in defrost to se if the heaters come on.
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You frig is not going through the defrost cycle. Locate the defrost timer and advance it to the defrost cycle.(one click). Empty the freezer and remove the rear panel. See if the defrost heater is starting to get hot. Located at the bottom of the evaporator. If getting hot, replace the timer. If not getting hot, unplug the frig and check the resistance across the defrost timer(should be a closed curcit when cold) and across the heater. If "0" resistance, replace heater.
When replacing the heater alwarys replace the defrost thermostat at the same time. Will save you work in the near future.
u will need to test the grid for continuity, using a volt meter make sure you have power to the grid at the connectors, if u do move on to testing the grid bars, each one should have power from side to side, the voltage will drop or increase as u move across the grid from the load of the heater bars.
12 volts is supplied to the grid across the glass.Turn rear defrost on and check for voltage and continuity across the grid...any broken spot in the grid will cause an open circuit and inoperative heater.
If you don't have current, 0v from terminal to terminal, then you don't have voltage to the elements. Replace the thermostat but check that you have 220v to the thermostat. It is possible that your breakers to the unit are either bad or tripped.
defrost problem. advance defrost timer to defrost (till it shuts off) . remove freezer panel, check voltage and amps to heater,if heater is hot, replace timer, if heater is cold and no voltage, replace defrost limit switch. defrost all ice, carefully! with hair dryer, no poking with screwdriver.
I feel like you have defrost thermostat wired wrong , One side of heater should have nothing hooked to it but one side of thermostat, whitch should shut it off when it goes open.Now some G.E.s have the evaperator fan hooked to the same wire,so it won't run when thermostat is open.If thats the case someone might have wired it wrong causing a back feed.check that out that could be your problem.Someone could have wired a hot lead to it not knowing it was supposed to go dead when limit control opened.hope this helps. God bless. Fxit
It sounds like you have a defrost problem. This will either be the defrost heaters the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. In order to check the heater if you are competent enough you can check that you have resistance across the heater. Alternatively you can rotate the timer (normally in the fridge section abov the thermostat control) around to a defrost cycle (you will normally hear a click) and check to see if the defrost heater kicks in. Please note the cabinet has to be cold in order for the heaters to work. The defrost sensor should also have zero resistance across the terminals when the coil is cold. Please do no attempt the above unless you are practically skilled. A good fridge guy should be able to quickly identify the problem and remedy it. Defrost heaters are generally the first part to fail. Hope this is of some help.
No No No. The most likely reason that the evaporator fan is not running is that it probably uses the heater circuit for its neutral feed. I.E. In order for the fan to have 230v/115v it needs a zero voltage brought back through the defrost heater and defrost stat. I know this for a fact because I just did one today and have fallen for this scenario (ie bad fan motor) before. You need to check from ground(earth) to each side of the fan motor (which is easily accessible) and then across the fan motor windings. The chances are that you have zero voltage across the motor. The fan will also not run until the temperature of the evaporator coil has been brought below 0 'C (32'F) and this can take up to 20 mins (again speaking from experience). This is to prevent snow being produced after defrost. I would advise getting the engineer to come back if you have paid him money and do a proper job. Shorts in Amanas can happen but have not come across one yet. Hope this helps.