I'm looking for parts for my speaker blower one last time. It was hooked up with all the right wiring and a relay , 0/1 wire, optima 31 series battery, and the amp had been repaired 2 times already with the same thing happening every time. The day it blew it wasnt turned up the outputs of the amp turned in to current and caught my JL w7 on fire. im really just looking for a site or some where to get the transisters i need 2 fix it
also is this a common problem in this amplifier
Its blown $1200 in speakers but i am going to give it 1 more chance
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: mtx81000d 3rd chance
The original output transistors (SSP45N20A - if I'm not mistaken) for this amplifier are very difficult to find and there are virtually no substitutes that will work without extensive modification. Many techs try to use the SSP45N20B but they don't work reliably.
If you do find replacements, expect to pay $15 or more each. It's possible that there are other problems also. For example, the over-current protection may not be working properly. When it's working properly, it will generally trip when the output transistors fail (which prevents damage to the subs).
This is an old design. The newer amps will be more reliable and will generally offer better protection for the speakers.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Well according to the wiring diagram, the blower relay gets power from two sources and feeds the fan switch. High speed bypasses the resistor and goes directly to the blower motor. The other speeds go thru the resistor and the motor is grounded. The AC control panel is connected thru the low speed which would include the other speeds also. The only thing I could think of would be a break in the wiring or one of the connectors. Did you check for voltage coming out of the switch for each speed, and then coming out of the resistor too ?
here is how your system works. The mode switch provides power to the blower relay. With the relay on, 12 volts goes from the relay to the blower motor. The negative power comes thru the resistor and switch (except for Lo, which doesn't go thru the swtich), which also has a thermal fuse. If the 50 amp fuse in the engine compartment is good, the thermal fuse in the resistor is the most likely cause, though switch failure often causes the thermal switch to blow. You should use an ohmmeter to test the switch for multiple continuities. There is no power to the switch except what comes thru the motor and resistor. Please see my tip athttp://www.fixya.com/cars/r6234839-doesn_t_heater_or_air_conditioner_blow and let me know if you have questions.
You gotta isolate the problem. Hook the speakers up to a different stereo to see if you hear sound. If no sound is heard then you know your speakers are fu.k.d up. If you hear sound, then reconnect them back to your stereo receiver and make sure the wires are in nice and snug. Turn the thing on and see what happens when you cycle through the various inputs. If you get no sound, then you know your receiver is fu.k.d up. Look for blown fuses and test for bad IC board. Also vacuum up all the dust inside the unit, cause sometimes over time dust will cause the circuits to not work correctly. Check around inside to make sure theres no water damage or black smoke on the circuits.
Red is power to from ignition to cd deck Yellow is direct power from battery to cd deck to hold the memory. Black is ground Blue is only needed if you are hooking up an amplifier. I always suggest buying a wire harness quick connect system for $5, then you won't have to cut origional car wiring. If by chance you are taking the original wire route, then go to installer.com to find which wires on the car are for what.
I would tie both + from the speakers to the radio, and both - as well. This will give an equal amount of power to both speakers and reduce the chance of blowing a speaker. As for +&- on the speakers, It is usually marked on the black piece right by the terminals. As little power as you are putting to the speakers, it doesn't really matter which way you hook them up, as long as they are both hooked up the same.
Here' s the colors to look for in the dash: 1994 Ford Probe Car Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Pink
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Light Green/Yellow
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Blue
I hqave taken the time to look this up, please take a few seconds rate the solution, thanks. 1995 Honda Civic Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/White Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Red Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2′ Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Black Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Red/Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Black Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′ Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Gray/White Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange/White Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Behind the glove box. Front Speakers Size: N/A Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Red Rear Speakers Size: N/A Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Orange
This definately means that you have a positve and negative speaker wire touching somewhere. First thing to do would be to check all connections at the speakers and on back of receiver and make sure all wires are seperated. This is a common problem if two wires are touching each other. If you check all connections and they look ok and you still have same problem you need to start unhooking all wires and hook them up one at a time and turn on system. If it works with one speaker then try hooking up a second speaker wire and so on until it gives you protection message again. Basically process of elemenation. Once you says that protection message you need to replace the last wire you hook up all together as you could of damaged it when running speaker wire or it could be a defect in speaker wire.