Question about General Electric GE SmartWater Household Water Filtration System - GNWH38F

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How do I reverse the direction that my condenser fan is blowing?

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  • hart_alex71 Jul 17, 2009

    The air coming out the top of the unit outside is cool instead of hot. The temp inside the house won't drop below 85. The unit is blowing out cold air but isn't rejecting the heat that's already in the house.


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You would have to replace the fan blade with one with the opposite pitch. In other words a fan that is a mirror image of the one in place. You cannot reverse the flow by flipping the fan blades over.
Why do you want to reverse the direction? I can think of no benefit in doing so. But then again you posted this under a Water Filtration heading?

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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Call Rheem and they will recommend calling installer since tankless computers are non intended as do-it-yourself.
If condensate drain is blowing out 'air' do not forget this air is deadly poison CO gas and will kill you, first giving you a headache that goes away when you are out of house. Remove affected people from home and put into fresh air and lay on side, never on back or they will suffocate. Call 911 immediately and most will recover.
Copy following link for resources and required maintenance for tankless computers that heat water: scroll down to venting and manuals and review each to check how vent lines are set up, and that condensate line is set correctly. However this information is NOT guaranteed to match each model made by Rheem as they advance their product marketing strategy to exclude as much safety information as possible for do-it-yourselfers.
Condensate lines can clog over time. Clean line with compressed air, and soak in clorox, and swing around overhead to remove anything inside line. This line contains bacteria so do it in neighbor's yard.
Not all conditions produce vent condensate. Condensate might not form in vent line if weather is dry and the vent has good draft. But later when conditions change, condensate might begin flowing.
Condensate is caused from burning hydrocarbon fossil fuels in any gas appliance. But problem is bigger with tankless since these appliance consume so much fuel per heating event since tankless are required to heat water rapidly as water passes by in a pipe. This is why tankless require larger incoming gas line, and larger vent line made from specific materials for the vent.
Among the long list of poisonous by-products being vented outdoors into the air our planet breathes is acidic water vapor. If conditions are such that the vapor condenses before reaching outdoor, then the acidic water gathers in the vent line and rolls back toward the tankless computer, and goes down into the condensate drain and then down into your pluming drain where it can corrode pipes and add acid by-product to other environments.
If the acidic water is allowed to fall back into tankless heat exchanger instead of down condensate drain, then eventually it will chew a hole through the special nickle alloy heat exchanger (imagine the hole it will chew through household drain lines), and the surprise will not be evident for a few years until leak develops and the tankless exchanger must be replaced at great expense, plus repairs to shorted motherboard and electrical sensors.
Just don't install tankless computer water heater is best solution for myriad of problems, maintenance, and expense of owning a device that must immediately monitor incoming and outgoing water temperatures and flow rates, incoming gas flow rate and pressure, outgoing vent flow and pressure, interact with a remote control device, while monitoring burn rates and combustion temperature using a computer motherboard that is not protected from line interference or power surge, etc
Just install tank-type heater:

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1 Answer

I have a 50 gallon rheem direct vent natural gas heater. The pilot light goes out on an infrequent but aggravating basis. I replaced the thermocouple one time and it got better for about a year but has...

Open following links for pilot light help:

Since pilot light goes out and can be re-lit, problem is probably not thermocouple, gas control valve, or air in gas line. But these things can factor in as contributing factors.
Problem is likely one of following or combination of following including dirty burner parts, tight house, incorrect vent lengths, negative pressure caused by other venting appliances, condensation dripping down into combustion area, and inadequate oxygen supply due to hot or closed-off room or attic location.

Gas water heaters draw air from surrounding area. If water heater is located inside house, then air has to enter home through cracks and when doors and windows are opened. Other gas appliances and vent fans also draw air from same indoor area. When other vent fans turn on, air can be drawn down the water heater vent and blow out pilot light.
Inspect combustion chamber to make sure there is no condensate water dripping down from incorrect vent that is putting out flame. If combustion chamber is dry, then close doors and windows. Turn on all vent fans and gas appliances that vent outdoors, and see if water heater pilot goes out.
Consult with plumber or product manual about proper horizontal and vertical lengths of vent pipe for your model. Have plumber clean combustion parts and inspect vent termination and check gas pressure and bleed gas line.
Add louver opening to outdoors so air can enter room where water heater is located.

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Thanks for your Question,
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