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What all that means is the sewage pipe going to the street is getting clogged so either snake it with 50 foot snake or go buy so Drain-O (60 ounce bottle costs about $9) and pour 1/5 in toilet and wait 10 minutes then pout 1/5 in Bathroom sink & wait 10 minutes. Keep do that until 60 ounce bottle is empty. Let this stay in pipes for couple hours and your toilet will double flush now its clean with no corrosion, hair, cooking oil, and other debris.
Main 3 (or 4) inch drain under the toilet is clogged. Requires removing the toilet and running a "snake" down the pipe. Alternately, you can (carefully) try manually filling the toilet bowl all the way to the top----to apply pressure to the clog....it may push it through.
Obviously the drain line from your toilet to main drain out of the house ( used by upstairs ) has a blockage from your toilet line to "Y" in to main drain line. Depending on how it has been plumbed, there may be a clean-out between the 2 that can be used to remove the blockage. Your drain for shower is piped in to same line as toilet, thus when blocked at other end, overflows to shower. You can try some drain cleaner down shower drain if it will go. You might get lucky and release the blockage before plumber shows up .
First make sure that tank is filling up to water line inside of tank. Depending on what type of flush valve and water level cotrol you have there are several ways to adjust water level. If you can adjust level to just below overflow tube.
On some of the older models that were just trying to comply with govt. water use standards they had problems getting them to flush completley on one flush. Depending on what method the manufacturer choose to use you can modifiy them to use more water on each flush and make them work better.
On the older toliets they used 3.5-4 gallons of water per flush and now they are not allowed to use more than 1.6 G.P.F. so they had to find various means to accomplish this. I am on my third toilet since this law came into effect and the one we have now uses a 3 inch diameter flush valve instead of the 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 of older models. It does work better but of course I had to buy and install new toilet. i'm sorry if this is not much help but a lot of the first generation 1.6 flush toilets just don't work very well. Thanks
Make sure the water level is the same in both tanks, so you know the water volume will be the same for both units when flushing. Next, hold the handle down for the full flush release to make sure the flapper (in the tank) is not closing too soon and cutting off the full water volume needed. Next, would be to get a tolet snake reamer (buy the cheapest one) and run it through the toilet bowl 3 or 4 times always turning clockwise while entering and while removing. If all this does not cure the problem, then you probably have a defective toilet outlet hole that was made too small when the toilet was formed. The outlet hole must be minimum 1 5/8 inch diameter (most are between
1 3/4 inch to 2 1/4 inch diam.) . This is an occassional industry problem; I have seen it several time over the many years. To confirm this, you need to remove the toilet and measure the hole, or get flush balls of 1 5/8 inch with 4 ft. string attached. If the ball flushes and takes all the string slack, then the hole is at least correct minimum size. If ball does not completely flush after 3 tries, then there is some obstruction or the hole is too small and toilet it therefore defective. Goodluck, Macgivor
Shut down the power and pull the pump from the unit and give it a exam. There might be something as simple as a item that was flushed down the toilet (pencil, pens, combs, etc.) or just a hair clump. Check that the float is free to track fully up and down. Good Luck!