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Reticle problems crosshairs center moveds after a shoot with my 3006 caliber.

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Having trouble sighting in at 100 yards using the center crosshairs off of a led sled shooting rig. groups are barely 14 inches now and it was shooting well a few months ago. please advise Travis


Something is wrong with the mounts, they have to be loose or something. I can hit better than that with iron sights. Unless the internals of the scope are loose. You have it mounted in a sled? Is it bolt action? Take out the bolt, sight down the bore at the target and make it stay there, peek through the scope without moving the gun, The cross hairs should be on the target, if not, you are off to start. Setting up your rifle like this will put you on paper at 100 yards. Check it out.

Aug 09, 2010 | Zeiss Conquest Riflescope w/Rapid Z 1000...

1 Answer

How to use the BDC on my rifle scope



  1. Step 1 Take a rifle with a properly installed BDC bullet drop compensating reticle to a rifle range. Using ear protection zero the scope reticle so that the point of impact corresponds to the center of the cross hairs at the distance you have selected - typically 100 or 200 yds.
  2. Step 2 Determine the trajectory of the specific cartridge you have selected. There are several ways to do this. Ammo manufacturers publish trajectory and wind drift information. There are web based ballistic calculators like http://www.biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx which will tell you how much your bullet drops at known distances.
  3. Step 3 Scope manufacturers like Leupold can be a valuable source of information about their reticle: "Leupold® Ballistic Aiming System: Boone and Crockett Club® Big Game Reticle aiming system provides a series of additional aiming points to improve your ability to shoot accurately at longer ranges. Nikon2_bing.gif also provides good information suggesting the marks on their reticle be used for zero at 100yds followed by circles below representing 200, 300, 400 and 500 yds if the cartridge travels around 2800 ft per sec. Nikon suggests the center cross hair be zeroed at 200 yds for magnum calibers traveling around 3000 ft per sec. We understant that each variation of different bullet weight and powder charge changes trajectory and a scope manufacturer can not build a different reticle for each different cartridge made so practice on the range to determine how well the marks relate to the actual impact of where your bullet strikes at a know distance is important. The one thing that people using BDC scopes typically have problems with is that a BDC scope has the reticle in the second focal plane of the scope. If the reticle was in the first focal plane of the scope the reticle would look smaller on low powers like 3x and grow proportionately larger as the power increased to say 9x top power. The problem is that while the marks on the BDC reticle correspond accurately to the bullet drop at the know distances 200, 300yds etc. What happens when you lower the power from the scopes maximum power to any other lower power is the reticle stays the same size and the field of view within the scope increases which means that the distance between these marks on the BDC reticle no longer corresponds to the point where the bullet will strike. In short BDC reticles only work at the maximum power of the scope or at a set specific power. At all other powers these BDC reticles do not accurately represent where the bullet will strike.
  4. Step 4 The center X always remains the same. If you zero at 100 yards and you know that your bullet drops 8 inches at 300 yards you could forget about the BDC marks and hold the center X 8 inches high - that works at any power 3x or 9x and should be used at lower powers. If you zero the center crosshair at 100yds and have the BDC scope at the maximum power 9X then the first line or circle below the center X should be the mark you place on the center of the 200 yard target----- the bullet strike should hit the center. If by some chance you put the scope on 3x and placed that first mark below the center cross hair on that 200 yard target you would shoot over the top of the target. This is because as the power of the scope decreases the field of view increases the angle increase and gets wider. You can experiment with known power settings and see at a specific power say 3x what that first circle down corresponds to and make notes because at any set power what the marks correspond to will be repeatable.
I got this from a website, hope it helps.

Apr 08, 2010 | Hammers Air Gun Rifle Scope 3-7x20 With...

1 Answer

Simmons aetec, put on muzzleloader to boresight and adjustments work in reverse.


It's a common misconception to think that you're moving the bullet impact on target, when in fact you're moving the scope's reticle to look where the rifle is shooting.... So if your shooting left of your target.. you want to move the crosshairs to the right.
Hope this helps, mark the Gunsmith
Please leave feedback, Thanks!

Jan 09, 2010 | Optics

1 Answer

Sight adjustments


It's a common misconception that you are moving the bullet's impact on the target... the bullet is hitting where the rifle is pointing and you want to get the scope to look at that very same spot.
To move the scope's reticle up or down, turn the elevation adjustment on the TOP of the scope in the direction you want the scope to look, so if your shooting low, turn the scope's adjustment in the DOWN direction.
If you want to move the direction the scope is looking left or right, turn the windage adjustment on the RIGHT side of the scope left or right to look where the bullet is impacting. To move the crosshairs to the right, turn it right.
Hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

Dec 11, 2009 | Bushnell 3-9x38 Sportview Rifle Scope...

1 Answer

I have a Busnell Scope 3-9x40 73-3940S


If the reticle doesn't move at all, you've got a damaged scope. Don't bother to take it to anyone to repair, just send it in to Bushnell and have them repair it. Hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

Contact info below: United States
Bushnell Corporation
9200 Cody
Overland Park, KS 66214-1734
Kansas City area - (913) 752-3400
Consumers - (800) 423-3537
Dealers - (800) 221-9035
Fax - (913) 752-3550
Canada
Bushnell Corporation of Canada
25A East Pearce St.
Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 2M9
Local Phone - (905) 771-2980
Other - (800) 361-5702
Local Fax - (905) 771-2984
Other Fax - (800) 661-3254

Dec 09, 2009 | Bushnell BANNER RIFLE SCOPEPower: 3-9X40 /...

1 Answer

I have a Redfield 'LO-PRO' rifle scope, 3X9 variable, on my 300 Win Mag. It is about 20 to 25 years old and the cross hairs must be loose. They are not straight up and down anymore. Will this affect the...


It doesn't sound like anything's broken, it sounds like the scope has shifted in the rings, as you said "they are not straight up and down anymore", which won't effect your accuracy at short ranges, but if there's long ranges (more than 100 yards) you're going to be off some.
You can loosen the ring screws until the scope will turn, either 2 or 4 screws that hold the two halves of the ring together. There are numerous tools to help you align the crosshairs, but when I do this job I just square-up the reticle (crosshairs) by looking at the center of the reticles and let your eye follow the bottom crosshair down and make sure it is centered on the back of the bolt or receiver. If you need help doing this job, take it to your local gunsmith, he'll be able to square these up for you and boresight it.
Hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

Dec 09, 2009 | Optics

3 Answers

Point of impact changes with every shot


Mount the rifle with the scope and make a mark on the backstop right where the crosshairs are pointed at

Shoot several times, several shots will surley jolt the scope some.

If the crosshairs have moved much past your mark then this would indicate the scope is the issue.

If the crosshairs are still pretty well centered to the mark, its not the scope.

If at the same time your grouping looks terrible, and your scope still is on the mark, and the gun is WELL mounted, then the issue is with the accuracy of the rifle.
Make sure the rifle is mounted good for this to ba accurate .
Hope this helps

Jul 30, 2009 | Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm Rifle Scope...

2 Answers

Windage and elevation not working barska 8-32*50mm


I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

Apr 07, 2009 | Optics

3 Answers

How to sight scope in /what scope do i have ?


Real simple Scott.
You can 'Zero' your scope/rifle even if you don't have a laser bore-scope device.
All this is assuming that your used rifle has not had the barrel shot out and that the head-space is still within specs for that rifle. Have all this checked by a gunsmith first. You can dress up a piece of poop and it will be pretty, but still be poop. Make sure yours isn't to begin with. As for the scope, it's hard to tell unless there's obvious damage or it's an antique past it's prime. Try to get as good a quality scope as possible to start with. You would not put one ply tube tires on your mustang and expect to get the best performance, so...
Most rifles are capable of shooting quite accurately, and all things being equal, it's the shooters job of making it happen.
Ammunition should be considered as well. Toss your old military ball ammo and junk from overseas, both of'em. If you want to shoot accurately and consistently, you must spend the bucks for the best ammo you can afford.
You MUST KNOW what the BALLISTICS are for the Cal./type/weight ammo you will be shooting and the corresponding distance it will be shot from.

Make sure your rifle is CLEAN inside and out. A clean rifle is a happy rifle.
Make sure that your rifle 'fits' your body's frame and that you are familiar and practice good rifle shooting techniques.
'Zeroing' is best done from the prone position as that is the most steady position to shoot from.
Do you have a bi-pod attached? Whether you do or not, sandbag your rifle securely but still able to make small adjustments to the rifle position itself.
Set up a target with a 1" black dot at 50rds.
Remove the bolt.
Lay down with your rifle but stay OFF of it, touch it as little as possible at this point.
With out disturbing the rifle look through the bore downrange to your target. Locate the black dot and if necessary adjust your rifle from the **** end until you can see the dot through the bore. Keep making minor adjustments until the dot appears to be centered in the bore. Make sure rifle is secure and steady at this point.
Then without moving or touching the rifle, look through the scope using the correct eye relief distance and locate the black dot. Now using the Vertical(Elevation) and Horizontal(Windage) adjustment knobs, move the reticles(crosshairs) until they both are centered on the dot.
Again look through the bore to make sure that you have not moved the rifle and that the dot is still centered in the bore. If not, adjust the rifle again to center the dot, then go back to the scope and adjust as necessary to move the RETICLES to the center of the dot. It may be necessary to repeat this a few times before you have achieved this particular goal.
You do not mention brand/model of your scope. It probably adjusts the reticle or crosshairs in 1/4minute increments (1/4 inch increments with each individual click movement of the turret knobs at 100 yard distance). IT IS CRITICAL for you to know how your own scope adjusts.
Now, bolt back in and load 3 rounds of quality ammo.
You are going to shoot 3 rounds in succession without getting off the rifle or making any adjustments to the rifle or scope. You are looking for a 3 shot group to determine a rough average of how far and where the rounds are impacting initially. Use good shooting techniques, breath control, relax, sight picture, squeeeeeeze the trigger, follow through the scope, there is no need to take your eye off the scope while doing this, hold your shooting position for all 3 shots.
You will now have to make adjustments of the scope unless you are hitting the black dot already which is quite possible.
Remember that if your scope is a 1/4" adjustment at 100yds, it means that for each 'click' that you adjust either Vertically or Horizontally at 100rds, the reticle/crosshairs will move accordingly 1/4 of an inch Vertically or Horizontally. At 200yds, one click will move it 1/2 inch, at 300yrd it will move it 3/4 of an inch, at 400yrd, it will be 1 inch.
Right now you are at 50yrds distance from your target. Each click from here will move the RETICLES about 1/8 of an inch so estimate the distance that your most central shot of the 3 you fired, is from the black dot and adjust accordingly. You're not moving the RIFLE here, you are simply moving the scope RETICLES so that your point of aim and point of impact coincides.
Now load 3 more rounds of ammo and repeat as above. You should only have to use about 9 rounds to get on target, the black dot.
Once you are hitting the black dot at the 50yrd line, move back to the 100yrd line. Put a fresh black dot on your target and repeat the steps from above. Your first 3 shots from the 100yrd line should be about 1/2 to 1 inch low. Don't follow the bullet strikes! Keep your point of aim and the crosshairs ON the black dot no matter where the bullets are striking on the target. Remember, now at 100yrds your RETICLES will move 1/4inch with each 'click' of adjustment of the turret knobs.
Adjust the scope as needed at this point. Once you are 'ON TARGET'(hitting the black dot), you now have your 100yrd. 'ZERO'.
Now that you have this 100yrd ZERO, you must loosen the turret knobs , both the Vertical(Elevation) and the Horizontal(Windage) turrets and align the '0' on the knobs with the '0' on the scope at the base of each knob. Now tighten the set screws and you are set to go. If you want to know your 200yrd 'ZERO', simply move back to the 200yrd line, your 'come-up' or elevation adjustment should be about 7-9 clicks, at least for .308 168grn HPBT, but you will figure it out for the Cal./brand/wght ammo you are using. WHATEVER the 'come-up' you need to make at 200, 300,400yrds or wherever, be sure to make note of the number of clicks you used to find the Zero for that distance. Use a fine point endelible marker and actually write the ZERO info on thestock of your rifle. You don't need to mark anything for the 100yrd ZERO, it's a given already. Write; 200/9, 300/18 and so on. You should also get your ZERO for the intermidiate, 150yrd, 250yrds etc, distances as well.
Remember that weather conditions, source and intesity of light conditions, your own body condition at any particular moment or day can have an affecf on how you and/or your rifle shoot. Good luck.

Mar 21, 2009 | Tasco ® Silver Antler® 3-9x40 mm Scope...

1 Answer

Crosshairs on pentax 4.5x14x42 don't move


With modern rifle scopes the crosshairs do not move.They are designed so that the crosshairs are always centered.I have not seen a scope with crosshairs that move for about 40 years.If your scope has 1/4 minute clicks, then the strike of the bullet moves 1/4 inch at 100 yards for every click.1 inch for 4 clicks and so on.If you rifle shoots 6 inches high at 100 yards you should turn it down 24 clicks to strike dead on.Many hunters and shooters adjust their scopes to strike 1 1/2 inches high at 100 yards.Then it will be accurate to about 300 yards without further adjustment.

Feb 15, 2009 | Pentax 4.5X-14X 42mm Pioneer Matte Rifle...

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