Question about Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

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When in AC mode we have a power outage, when power returns heat pump turns on. Come home to hot hot house. ckd coil, wiring, reverse valve. have honeywell thermostat. unit only 2 mos. old. also new air handler same time.

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Possible defrost board. Get service tech to check this . Had the same problem change board it was ok. RUSS

Posted on Jul 18, 2009


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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My ac fan runs when I am in heating mode. should this happen

Yes. It is operating as a heat pump in this mode. If you notice that during the summer, when you feel the air coming off the outdoor unit, it is hot. This is the heat from the house being removed from the refrigerant that has just returned from the coil inside the house. When you switch to heating mode, you are effectively attempting to "air condition the world", so to speak. The process is reversed, with the outside coil grabbing whatever heat it can from the environment and sending it to the inside coil to be blown into the house as heat. Not as efficient as oil or gas maybe, but in moderate climes it can be cheaper overall.

Jan 26, 2016 | Heating & Cooling


Why your unit is freezing up.

To understand why your AC or heat pump is freezing up, it helps to know how your system works.

There are 7 major parts to an AC system, 9 with a heat pump.

1 - Condenser/heat pump (The outdoor unit)
2 - Air Handler (the indoor unit unless the system is a package unit, then all is outside in one system. The air handler is usually found under the home, in an attic, or in a closet.)

In the condenser are the following major parts.

3 - Compressor
4 - Condenser coil
5 - Condenser fan
6 - (HPs only) reversing valve

In the air handler are the following major parts.

7 - Blower motor
8 - Evaporator coil
9 - (HPs only) electric heat strips

Some systems known as "dual fuel systems" use another heat source in place of the heat strips, usually a gas furnace. I will address gas furnaces in another post.

When an air conditioner is operating properly several things are taking place.

1 - The compressor is compressing or "pumping" refrigerant through the system.

2 - through changes in pressure, the refrigerant makes the evaporator coil get very cold, and the condenser coil gets very hot.

3 - The blower motor/fan circulates air across the evaporator coils, as the room temperature air (Also known as "indoor ambient") goes through the cold coil, it exits, cooled approximately 15 to 20 degrees cooler than when it entered. (In a ducted system, the blower is also the fan that circulates the air throughout the home.)

4 - The condenser fan circulates air across the condenser coils. As the outdoor air goes through the condenser coil, it removes heat from the coils that are very hot. This in turn removes heat from the refrigerant so it can run its cycle again, and through pressure changes, cool the evap coil.

5 - With a heat pump, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant in the condenser and evaporator coils.
In AC mode, the evaporator coils get cold, and the condenser coils get hot. But in heat mode, the evaporator gets very hot, and the condenser very cold.

Now, whichever coil is getting cold will freeze up if there is inadequate air flow across the coil, as the refrigerant in it is far below freezing, and there is not enough airflow to keep the humidity in the air from freezing on the coil.

Things that can cause poor airflow are,

1 - Dirty/clogged coils
2 - dirty/clogged filter (will only effect evaporator coil)
3 - Closed/blocked vents (will only effect evaporator coil)
4 - Malfunctioning or dirty fan

Low refrigerant will also cause a coil to freeze up, reduce efficiency and cause the system to run for long periods of time. Not to mention, shortening the life of the unit.

With a heat pump, in heat mode only, the condenser (outdoor) coil will routinely begin to freeze up in cold temperatures. This is due to the fact that the refrigerant is below freezing, and the cold outdoor ambient temp is not warm enough to keep the condensation in the air from freezing on the coil.

Note, a properly working AC should never freeze up.

A heat pump is equipped with defrost controls to prevent ice buildup.
Some are controlled by timers, some by temp.

When a HP is going into defrost mode, the condenser fan shuts down, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant and the once cold condenser coil now gets very hot, defrosting the coil. (Many people have said this process sounds like the unit is coming apart, or about to explode and are frightened by the "smoke" which is really just steam from melting ice that comes off the unit.)

During defrost mode, the secondary or "auxiliary" heat comes on to ensure that you are still getting warm air from the vents. (Again, this can be electric heat strips or a dual fuel system)

If you are experiencing cold air from the vents during defrost, that means your auxiliary heat is malfunctioning.

The auxiliary heat is used for three purposes.

1 - during defrost mode to maintain warm airflow (automatic)
2 - when the HP cannot maintain the set temp due to extreme outdoor temps. It comes on when the indoor temp drops several degrees below the set temp on the thermostat (automatic)
3 - For emergency heat source when the HP is not working. (Manual)

To recap....

Iced up coils?

Poor airflow
low refrigerant
Malfunctioning fan
failing defrost system

There are two things that can be done in a pinch to help de-ice frozen coils. This may get you by until the repairman can get there, or you can fix the system if you are a do-it-yourselfer.

HPs frozen outdoor coil in heat mode, not going into defrost?

Cover most of the vents, and turn the system onto cooling mode until the outdoor coil is thawed. then uncover vents and return to heat, or emergency heat. (this usually takes 15 min or less)

Frozen coils in AC mode with a heat pump?
Turn the system to heat with the thermostat on just high enough to get the system to come on. (again, usually takes 15 min or less to thaw.)

AC only, with frozen evap coils? (this can sometimes be seen frozen all the way outside to the compressor on the copper lines.)

Turn the system off, and the fan switch from "auto" to on".
This will usually defrost the coils within 1 to 2 hours.
(If your system has the furnace in line before the evap coil, turn the system to heat, and the furnace will defrost the coil within minutes.)

on Dec 25, 2008 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

2 Answers

My Home AC blows hot air

You need to check to see if you have 24 volt signal from thermostat to your reversing valve. To go into cooling mode the reversing valve needs to be energized. Orange is normal color of the reversing valve power supply. On your unit will be a reversing valve which looks like a pipe with 3 pipes attached to one side and 1 pipe attached to the other side. On the side of the the reversing valve will be a coil with a 2 wire connection. This coil needs 24 volts applied to shift unit into cooling mode. In your thermostat wire bundle where it is connected, check for voltage between common and the orange wire. If it does not have 24 volts with the thermostat in cooling mode, you have a break in the line normally a connection on the orange junction inside your air handler or your thermostat orange wire is loose. Keep checking for 24 volts available until you find the source of the loss. If you have 24 volts at the reversing valve, you can check to see if the valve is working by unplugging the 2wire connection on the side of the valve, if it clicks its powered if not and 24 volts available then the coil needs replaced.
Any more than this you will need a professional tech to troubleshoot and fix.
Hope this helps.

Jun 21, 2014 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Why does it shut off after it starts ? 2a6b3060a1000a american standard

It sounds like a stuck reversing valve stuck in heating mode based on a hot refrigerant line.
It could be stuck in the heat position because it isn't receiving 24 volts to operate, or it could be stuck internally.
Tapping on the copper tubes on the reversing valve sometimes frees one that is stuck internally. It is copper so don't get carried away or you will destroy the reversing valve.
Did you feel the temperature of both copper lines?
If the reversing valve is stuck in heat, during the winter, your heat pump will ice up, because it isn't reversing to cool as it should when it calls for the defrost cycle to occur.
Google "heat pump reversing valve" to see what one looks like
You'll need to use a voltmeter to verify that the reversing valve is receiving twenty four volts.
Pull the two wires at the reversing valve coil and check for 24 volts.
If you don't have 24 volts there when you put the unit in cooling cycle,you either have defective thermostat wiring, or a defective thermostat.
If you have 24 volts you will need to check the electrical coil that the two wires plug into.
Set the voltmeter to ohms, and make contact with the meter leads onto the terminals of the coil. One lead goes on one terminal and one lead on the other terminal at the same time, to check for continuity. You should get an ohm reading. That means the coil is good.

If the meter indicates "0" ohms the coil is shorted and needs replacement.
If the meter doesn't read any ohms at all that means that the coil is burnt out and needs replacement

When the reversing valve is activated there will be a "whoosh" sound you can clearly hear if you are near the outdoor unit.

You can order the A/C parts you need online unless you have friend that is a HVAC tech and he could get one from the Trane supply house.

It is a big job to replace the reversing valve involving freon removal and brazing. Hopefully you will find the problem in the wiring, Thermostat, or the reversing valve coil.

May 16, 2014 | American Standard Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Haier Heat Pump System. Reversing switch is staying energized. hr30d2vae hb3600vd2m20-t

Hi, on all heat pumps, the reversing valve will be energized in the cooling mode only. The only units that the coil on the valve is energized in the heating mode is a Rheem and Ruud unit, they will default to cooling if they fail, this is crazy but they do it. You say your reversing valve is energized and stays there. I know you don't have a Rheem. If it is energized at the coil, it must be in the cooling mode. If you want it in the heating mode, and it is not switching the sleeve and ball bearing in the valve, it may be the thermostat, a faulty reversing valve 24 volt coil, or the control board at the outdoor unit it self. I wish I knew what season you are in, if you live where it is hot or where its cold right now? For a temp. fix on this, you can de-energize the valve by removing the panel where the compressor is and unplug the coil to the valve and it will switch back the other way if the valve isn't hung up its self. Very easy to unplug this coil, just grasp the black plug if you are sure it is energized, and pull it off of the 2- terminals to remove power to it. Depending on what mode it is in, I am assuming cooling as it is energized in cooling, you can also go to the circuit board and find the o or b terminal, which ever is being used to switch the valve, and take off the wire. This should kill the power to the coil. To find out which part is causing it not to de-energize, you will have to start at the thermostat after you hook all up like it was, and remove the o/orange wire or b/blue wire to see if it kills this coil. If so, the stat is bad. If not, wire it back up and go to the control board. Kill all power to the a/c. You want to take a look at the back side of this board. It is very tight and will have 4-stand off screws to remove. If you need to remove any wires, write the colors and terminals they come off of so you know where they go. This is very important. You just want to peak in behind it to see if you see any hot or burnt spots anywhere. I have seen this over, and over again. If so, this board is the problem. If you are still getting 24 volts to this coil when you are not in the cooling mode, you still have a faulty stat or control board. These are what sends voltage to the reversing valve coil.I would start with the stat as this is the least expensive of the two parts. If you don't feel you can tackle this, don't feel bad as this is something that you must be or have some training in to troubleshoot it. If this coil is energized, unplug it to kill the power to reverse it, so you can temp. fix this. Please keep me posted on this and please rate me as I know you will be kind. I will be checking in with you to see if you called out any one, and I hope that the reversing valve has not froze up on you.
A/C, Heating,

Sep 06, 2010 | Haier Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

I am getting hot air instead of cool air from my heat pump when it is in the cooling mode.

The problem is in the thermostat wiring. Y1 on an air conditioner, brings on the cooling. On a heat pump, it brings on the compressor, which generally fails to heat mode. The O wire operates the reversing valve, which brings on cooling. If these wires are reversed, or not hooked up, you will not get cooling.

Jul 12, 2010 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Reversing valve installed backwards on goodman heat pump have a simple comfort 2000 thermastat the defrost cycle doesn't work . can the reversing valved be wired on the terminal board to accomadate this...

You should be able to move the reversing valve wire from O terminal, (the changeover relay), on the thermostat to B terminal. I deal mostly with York
which O on the t'stat is normally open and B is normally closed.

Oct 01, 2009 | Goodman PHKJ048-1 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

AMANA AC unit Blows heat in cooling mode

These valves do get stuck. They energize for cool and in the dead postion they heat. Your valve is stuck or not energized. Can you here it click or try to energize. If you dont hee the click you do not have voltage to the valve. The valve is powered thru the defrost board. So that might be your problem. If you have voltmeter. Take the two wires off the valve and turnit on cool you should get 24 volts. If you have 24 volts the valve is bad. If you do have voltage to the valve tap the valve while energized and sometimes this will loosen them up. If the board or valve is bad you will have to call a service tech. Russ There is only so much you can do.

Jul 25, 2009 | Whirlwind FH-778 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Heat Pump and fan work fine, but will not blow cold air on AC setting

The reversing valve coil may be bad or no power to it during cool. Most heatpumps are set to have the coil of the reversing valve energize in the cool mode. The heating mode is the fail safe mode if the rev valve fails to energize. Check this and let me know.

Jun 18, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Reversing valve not switching over to air on heat pump. compressor will come on for about 10 minutes, then shut off. Hot air comes out vent.

Look for any refrigerant leaks - no or low refrigerant can cause problems in both modes. The unit may be going off on low suction.


The unit may be stuck in the heating mode.

Make sure the system is calling for the correct mode (cooling or heating) - some systems are auto, but if you can, select cooling since that is the requested mode. Check for power at the reversing valve inside the condensing unit. If power exists, then the reversing valve is stuck. It could also be the reversing valve solenoid coil, so make sure that isn't bad. There should be a strong magnetic field at the solenoid coil.

If you can hear the reversing valve clicking (moving), check the T-stat and make sure it will switch modes. Also check the reversing valve relay (those can be located in either the indoor unit or condensing unit).

May 25, 2009 | Ruud Matching Split Air Conditioner

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