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M#NDG2330AWW Ignitor heats up,gas pressure at valve. When gas valve opens pressure drops to nothing and no ignition.

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  • Dryers Master
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Very common problem. BAD COILS

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Frigidaire gas oven not heating. The broiler and burners work but the lower burner will not ignite. I replaced the igniter however that did not fix the problem. In fact, the new igniter does not glow. I...


Check for volts to the new ignitor. The ignitor draws current which opens the gas valve. If it is not glowing it is not drawing power. Test the ignitor,disconnected, with an ohm meter, it should be under 200 ohms.

Dec 28, 2013 | Ovens

1 Answer

Our Maytag model dg410 quit ingniting. Is it ignitor or something else?


Power from the control Klixon mounted on the blower housing energizes the gas valve assembly when the temp is below 105f and the dryer is set for heat. If that control is open then no power is applied and no heat. If a restriction causes the dryer to exceed 350 for some reason then the fuse next to the control Klixon melts. No power will get to the gas assembly but the dryer will run. On that gas assembly is an ignitor/flame detect sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids that open the gas valve. The flame sensor must have continuity. If it is open then no power will get to the ignitor. If the ignitor is broken you will also have nothing. The coils will not open the valve without a change in the resistance of the circuit. One of them coils has 3 wires and the other has 2. The sequence of gas valve operation is the flame sensor bi-metal has to open when the temp exceeds 1800f. this kills the power to the ignitor and flips the 3 wire coil so that the ignitor is now a thermocouple and the coils will yank open the gas valve. As long as that ignitor stays hot then the gas will continue to flow out the valve. If for some off reason the gas were not to ignite the ignitor would coold down and shut off the gas and that is your builtin safety. So what goes wrong? Blown thermal fuse, open control Klixon, open flame detect/sensor, open ignitor, or Intermittent coils,(the coils will get hot and quit with age.
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Maytag dryer service manual and more HERE

Dec 20, 2010 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

HAYWARD H400 NG I REPLACED THE IGNITOR THE HEAT LIGHT COMES ON FOR ABOUT 15 SEC. AUDIBLE CLICK IN UNIT SO I BELIEVE IT IS TRYING TO IGNITE BUT NO GAS FLOW ? GAS IS ON ON VALVE AND SOURCE


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


You will need a monometer to check gas pressure before and after the valve and a voltmeter to check for voltage at the valve.

Hook up the monometer and watch for pressure drop during the ignition phase. If it does and the heater won't light your problem is in the ignitor or control board. If it does not your problem is the board or the valve.

Check for voltage at the gas valve to confirm if the valve or the board is the problem.

If you are unfamiliar with these tools you should call a professional. You are working in a potentially dangerous environment.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

Dec 03, 2010 | Hayward H Series Pool & Spa Heater 400k...

1 Answer

My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Components:

Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

Operation:

At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

Feb 20, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

The heat turns off after 3 seconds of flame.


There is a flame sensor failure.

Here is the ignition sequence for a furnace. This will help you understand what is happening/not happening.

Thermostat2.gif calls for heat.

draft inducer motor (DIM) starts drawing draft through heat exchanger.

Pressure switch detects proper operation of DIM, and sends signal to board to begin ignition.
(it detects negative pressure)

Ignitor starts ignition attempt and gas valve sends gas to burners.

Upon ignition, flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to board stopping ignition sequence and continuing gas flow for heat mode operation until thermostat is satisfied.

During this sequence the blower motor is brought on, and by using a series of temperature limit switches, the system assures that the unit is operating properly.
(If the blower is not operating, or the airflow is inadequate, the heat exchanger will overheat and trip one or more temp limit switches.)

There is also a "rollout" switch that detects improper flame pattern "rolling out" into the controls compartment.

Now, to apply that to your situation.

If the flame sensor does not sense flame, it shuts down the furnace to prevent a dangerouse gas build up.

With most modern glow coil ignition systems you have one of two failures.

1) the flame sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2) the control board is not proccesing the signal from the flame sensor and shuts the system down. In that case the board would need to be replaced.

There is a possibility that a temperature limit or roll out switch is breaking the curcuit, but that would be quite unusual to happen consistantly at three seconds.

Unless you have the ability and tools to test the snesor and board, the next step would be to replace the sensor first, and then the board if that does not fix it.

Oct 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag gas dryer model#NDG2330AWW heating problem


your gas coils are bad. they open up for the first cycle but fail to after. Replace your coils and this will solve your problem

Dec 13, 2008 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

Amana oven gas leak issue


staunch has no idea what he is talking about. It has nothing to do with the igniter, or it would fire up at all. Since you are saying that your oven does ignite and heat up, it is the internal gas valve that is the problem.

The way all recent (20 year at least) are designed, the gas valve internally can not open unless the igniter is working, for obvious reasons ... boom! The igniter circuit allows the gas valve to open, once it detects that the igniter is ready to "ignite" a gas flow. BUT, the valve can be bad in the AMOUNT of gas being delivered. Your's is allowing too much gas, more than can be burned, hence the smell.

DON'T use the oven until you have a qualitifed tech come out and replace the valve. It is very dangerous for you to do it yourself.

Nov 22, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Oven failing to light


The ignitor needs at least 3.2 amps current flow to heat the bi metal in the gas  control valve enough to allow the gas to flow. cold ignitor (red) will not flow enough current, when ignightor gets yellow resistance drops enogh to allow bi metal to heat and allow gas valve to flow and ignight gas. most likely your ignitor is shot

Dec 20, 2006 | Dynasty DGRSC 30 Gas Kitchen Range

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