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If it is a drip maker, only gravity drives the hot water thru the coffee grinds. If the coffee is ground too fine, it immediately packs up and doesn't let water flow thru it and the water flows around the coffee instead of thru it.
Try using a coarser grind, and if not you can use a lot smaller amount of coffee and water. A smaller amount of coffee is easier to diffuse thru than a large amount.
Another thing is to slow down the water speed entering the coffee basket. I found the best way to do that is to use water just above freezing and place that extra cold water in the reservoir. The cold water takes extra time to be heated up by the coffee maker so less water is released over the coffee grinds per minute.
If your coffee maker overflows a lot, that is a good indicator that the grind is too fine and/or your coffee filters are too flimsy and are plugging up the channels in your coffee basket and the coffee can't enter the flask, so it overflows.
But the easiest way to check out your coffee maker is to use extra cold water and just run half batches (5 cup) of coffee instead of 10 cup
First try turning off the machine for 30 minutes. Then check your inlet valve. Shut off valve, switch off machine & see if the water comes full flow. Check the fine filters on the machine inlet entry, they could be blocked, clean out. The FH indicates a fill failure and this is usually caused by a bad water valve, flow meter or pressure switch. One key to determining the cause of the FH error is how fast the error comes up in a cycle. If the error appears within 1 or 2 minutes then the most likely cause will be the water valve or flow meter. If the error doesn't appear for several minutes then the pressure switch can be the source of the problem. Both water valves must be turned on and working. Even if a cold wash is selected at some point during the fill the hot water valve will be energized and if there is no water then the FH error will show up. Sometimes a consumer will turn the hot water valve off to save energy but you can't turn one valve off on some washers. Inlet valves can be purchased thru the net and fitted by you easily. Click if helped pl.
Check the 94282000 cartridge for debris on the filters. If your boiler requires a certain flow rate to come on, then you must get enough flow through the cartridge to make that happen. Also, if your boiler is producing very hot water, the cartridge will self regulate and reduce the hot flow accordingly. try lowering the output temperature of the boiler to resolve that possibility.
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Im assuming you have 2 water valves, A hot water valve and a Cold water valve. I suspect the inline filters are blocked. Switch the water tap/s off and unscrew the pipes off the machine side. Inside the valve entrance, there should be a sieve. using long nose pliers, pull both out and clean properly. Reinstall in same orser. Test now.
Try opening the pressure relief valve (carefully so you don't burn yourself) slightly, and see if water comes out and if it is hot. It sounds like you may have very little if any water in there. Check by-pass valves at back of water heater for proper positioning. Cold should go in the bottom, hot out the top. Make sure there is flow through any valves going into bottom, and any valve at the top.Any valves connected in between the hot and cold should be in the off position. If need be, to test if incoming cold water getting into tank at bottom fitting, shut off water, relieve pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. then close all taps. Now remove your drain plug, then turn water back on, and water should shoot out the drain plug hole with good pressure within a few seconds and flow steady while water on. If not you have a restriction such as valve in wrong position or faulty, so try moving valve to get better flow out drain plug. If flow out drain is good, then make sure valve at top fitting on back of tank (if any) is also open for good flow . Any other valves should be closed in between those 2 lines. Let me know what you find.
I had the EXACT same problem (installed my tankless last winter and worked fine, now this summer it fluctuates, have to turn the shower completely off and then on again to get any hot water and then it only lasts for a couple of minutes!) Argh - it is frustrating!
Here's what I found: the demand for hot water is lower during the summer (hot) months because the "cold" water coming in is already quite warm. You don't need as much hot water to make the shower temp comfortable. SO, my tankless was shutting off due to low flow demand. I've removed the flow restrictor from my shower head and it helped alot but didn't completely solve the prob. Next step is what has been recommended to me by several people but is much more expensive - change the pressure valve on your shower to a temperature valve. Or just wait til winter and it should work ok again :)
Hi, In most cases the water is slowed by the water storage tank in the freshfood section is frozen. or if the water filter is dirty. You can try to turn the temperature up in the freshfood and see if the problem goes away, or you can replace the water filter. The water storage tank is behind the bottom drewers in the freshfood section. You can heat it up with a hair dryer to make sure it does not have any ice blocking the flow.. Good luck to you and I hope this will FixYa.
Anderson Appliance Repair
The faucet is slowing wearing out. You can live with this little drip or have a repair kit installed in the faucet. If you are handy you can do this yourself. You must be sure to get the repair kit that matches your faucet. good luck
its in your cold water line valve to the washer if it works good with hot water the valve are incoming line being blocked when you turn it on the pressure comes in fast then when pressure is gone water slows down so when its off the pressure builds back up it runs fast then slow