Question about Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

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Can't get lint assembly back on

After 2 1/2 years of perfect use the felt around the lint assemble tore off. Got a replacement thought it would be easy to replace but now I can't get it back on. I took off the interior round section to remove the lint and now I can't get it back over the little lip on the bottom. Any one have a hint?

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Make sure the drying sensors are on right otherwise the round part wont go on right. WHere did you find lint filter? I've been looking all over for it

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

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Unplug the dryer.
Remove the lint filter.
Remove the screws at the lint filter opening.
Pop the lid clips on the left and right front corners of the cabinet.
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My Kenmore 80 series quit working suddenly after removing a piece


This puppy needs help. You're going to have to take it all apart. Check all roller wheels, find heat resistant grease. Maybe graphite will do. With the belt off, spin the motor by hand, it should roll freely. If not, first feel for worn bearings by trying to move the motor shaft up and down. I've never lubed a dryer motor. Replace it if you can! These motors are very generic, keep your eyes open for replacements by the road if that's your thing. Sure works for me. When re-assembling check the front sliders for damage or misplaced felt, if your unit doesn't have wheels there. The drum should not rub stuff it's not supposed to. Make sure you are putting the belt on right. And of course check the fan area for loose stuff.

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I am trying to replace the belt but the drum is still attached to the back (I have taken every visible screw out). Should I try from the front? Is there a way of getting the drum unsecured from the back?


Dryers do not open from the back
the screws removed secure parts to the inside of the case
carefully replace them.
to opent the front of the dryer
unplg dryer

type I: maytag:kenmore stackable:speedqueen:
  • remove 2 screws from bottom of front panel, swing front panel out at bottom and unhook from dop
  • remove door switch wires from switch
  • remove front panel set aside
type II: Kenmore:whirlpool:ge:frigidaire
  • remove lint filter
  • remove 2 screws in lint filter holder
  • with putty knife or other blunt blade
    depress spring catches at corners of top cover
  • lift top cover at front
  • remove 1screw each side 1/3 way down
  • remove door switch wires
  • remove front panel set aside
dryer internals are exposed and easily repairable
examine back panel to ensure that nothing is detached from screw removal
assemble in reverse order

Note:
while the dryer is disassembled, examine felts rollers and glides for wear, most common cause of belt breakage, if there is any wear, replace.
examine fan, fan housing and ducting for lint that got past the filter screen.

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LG WM 3431 does not dry


Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD / WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However, WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual downloaded from http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my repairs.

Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for your screw-ups.

Trouble date: January 2006

Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.

Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without “Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.

Trouble date: March 2008

Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.

Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.

Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.

Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at 2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while the kitchen timer was still running.

Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and 4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.

Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.

Lessons learnt:

Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.

Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the Duct Assembly (condensing).

Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.

Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side. Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and secure bellows.

Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush. Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end. Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and it appears to be so for many users as well.

User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning maintenance is required.

extracted from http://www99.epinions.com/content_427670867588?alert_type=0&submit=Submit
please visit and leave a positive comment if your trouble was solved. tq.

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