How do you remove the wood veneer side panels of these speakers?

The problem is not caused by storage outside an airconditioned environment so don't beat yourself up about that. More than likely the sections in the photo that have peeled off looks to me like damage to the veneer caused by bad handling when being moved into and out of storage (or damaged while in storage)because that is exactly where I would expect to see a problem due to rough handling.

Sections that are peeling can be removed in total and replaced with new veneer and finished to match the original.

If the furniture pieces are reasonably valuable items you are going to keep for years then any decent cabinet maker can replace the veneer sections that are peeling and it is worth having a professional do it if you are keeping the item.

You can save money by doing the surface refinishing yourself. Just keep some spare pieces of new veneer to experiment with to get the colour and finish as close as possible.

Obviously the veneer work is only as good as how it was carried out by the original cabinet maker. I have a desk from 1972 done in a very nice timber veneer that has never been kept in the air conditioned section of the house and none of the veneer has peeled or broken away. It is still in mint condition and survived 3 house moves, one 500 mile move, but properly protected from damage..

remove plastic gearchange cover four clips use small plastic blade down each side about 20mm from each end to release, disconnect switch connectors.remove 4 screws and metal retainers, may have spacing washers underneath.remove veneer j gate surround.remove rear centre console end held by clips just pry off carefully,remove 4 torx screws now exposed. remove centre console you may have to disconnect electrical connectors depending on vehicle spec.cig lighter on all,it will then enable the audio unit fixings to be removed make sure you remove the gearshift from P and disconnect battery before you start work

Open glove compartment look straight up and you will see a screw . This hold in the faux wood trim panel. Remove this screw, move to the driver side and remove side panel of dash, you will see a black screw holding a steel bracket remove this screw. Pull the faux wood panel loose just enough to remove headlight switch

Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Do not leave the instrument cluster face down for any length of time. Lower and extend the steering column to its maximum rearward position. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the air vent. Release the tangs. Remove the air vent. Remove the air vent. Release the tangs. Remove the air vent. Remove the center air vents. Release the tangs. Remove the center air vents. Detach the switch assembly. Remove the switch assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the instrument panel veneer trim retaining screw. Remove the instrument panel veneer trim retaining screws. Remove the instrument panel veneer trim retaining screws. Detach the instrument panel veneer trim. Remove the instrument panel veneer trim. Detach the instrument cluster. Remove the instrument cluster. Disconnect the electrical connectors. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

You will need to remove the door panel and unplug and wiring for power windows, locks, speakers, etc. Then support the bottom of the door with a floor jack or block of wood. A friend to help would be good. Unbolt the door at the door hinge either on the door or the body, depending on how it is mounted. You will need metric wrenches, and sockets, screwdrivers for the door panel .

Hi there.

The procedure is roughly the same for all mk3 x types.
You need to remove all the screws on the armrest and on the ashtray, then undo all the plastic clips using screwdrivers on the panel.

You find detailed instructions on links below, I quote:

" remove two screws at the bottom of the armrest.
pull out ash tray.
remove screw in the middle of the ash tray holder.
pull up on armrest, it should pop up, then pull it out
start at bottom right of door and start popping out the plastic clips (all the way around the door)
(remove speaker wires)
push up door panel - done"



WikiAnswers - How do you remove a rear door panel in a Jaguar XJ6


Also from manual:

Disconnect vehicle battery ground lead.
Remove the door trim pad veneer panel.
Remove the upper trim pad.
Remove the door armrest.
From inside the door pocket, release the puddle lamp (1 Fig.1) securing quarter turn fastener.
Undo and remove fixing (3 Fig.1), (front door only)
Carefully release lower trim pad fir tree fasteners.
To avoid damage and distortion of the door metal, lift the lower trim pad complete with clip and clip retainer.
Carefully pull the trim pad away from the door panel.
Disconnect the multi-plugs (1 Fig.2) and remove the lamp.
Carefully displace the trim pad (2 Fig.1) from the door retaining clips.
Disconnect the multi-plugs (2 Fig.2) and (3 Fig.2).
Remove the door pocket.
Displace and remove the retaining clips and remove the trim..
Refit in the reverse order of the removal procedure. Check the trim pad retainers for damage before refitting.

Before refitting the lower trim pad, remove the clip retainer from the pad and and reposition retainer to the door.

ndo door handle escutcheon screw and remove escutcheon
Remove the door trim pad veneer panel.
Undo and remove the upper trim pad securing screws.
Remove the chrome strip.
Undo and remove the top channel securing nuts.
Displace and remove the top channel assembly.
Place the trim pad aside (Fig. 1).
Refit in the reverse order of the removal procedure.







Thanks Jaguar XJ6 Interior Lights

I will be grateful if you can rate the solution given.

Many thanks.

G.

It was really not hard at all. First you have to remove two phillips head screws from behind the door handle and four more from around the outer surface of the door panel. Then I took a flat nail remover bar (very handy when you have nails driven into wood that you want to remove) and slipped it between the bottom edges of the door panel and located/popped aloose the securing plastic inserts around the outer edges. Then with gentle force lifted the door panel from the bottom upward to pop aloose the upper inserts. Then you have to gently lift up the left upper portion nearest the window (which should be lowered) that has the door lock plunger comming through it, from the door frame. When this is done, the one screw that secures the speaker frame is exposed. Once the screw is removed the speaker frame will slide to the left and off of the door thereby exposing the four mirror securing nuts. One of the nuts is located behind a round piece of glued on clear plastic. Once the mirror is removed and repaired/replaced just reverse the process above to reattach the speaker frame and door panel. Care needs to be taken when getting the door lock plunger and door handle reinserted into the door panel then carefully locating the plastic insert tips with the holes in the door frame. You can gently shove the inserts into their respective holes with the heel of your hand or fist and reattach with the six screws.

there are 4 torx T-15 screws, one in the rear map pocket, one under the air bag logo plastic clip, one under the wood trim (pry the trim off carefully), and one holding the door handle assembly (also revealed when you remove the wood burl cover). Pick up a pry tool at autozone, about 5 bucks to pry the clips out without breaking

There are 2 types of wood trim on the s-class. One is a solid piece and the other is split in the middle. Remove the ac pushbutton panel, remove the shifter trim and remove the cigar lighter insert. If it is a solid panel, then you will unscrew two screws underneath where the ac panel was and I believe that with the ac panel out of the way you can reach in and pull the radio head out. If you need to remove more, then be very careful with the wood-very costly. If it is the split wood, look for a screw on the back of the cigar lighter wood trim(you've already removed the insert, right). You need a 1/4 in. ratchet with a screwdriver bit to access. You only need to loosen it up and slip it off. With the wood out of the way, look for two hidden screws on the inside front edge of the center console wood panel-right behind the wood cover you just removed. These will have to come out as well. Once they are out, pull up gently on the front of the rear wood panel(around the shifter) and slip out, There are likely two more screws underneath this panel. Take them out to remove upper wood trim.