How do i get reed of bronchtis? - Exercise & Fitness

I don't generally like to work on 2cycles. Reed valves are under the carb on the ones I've seen. I watched this whole video of a 250 being disassembled and I didn't see reed valves. It looks like a ported piston design to me aka no reed valve. I'm willing to be wrong.
Here's a complete tear down video -
Stihl MS250 Chainsaw Teardown

Here is an exploded diagram and I don't see reed valves on it.
Stihl MS 250 Chainsaw MS250 Parts Diagram

Yes mate... It is hard to say without seeing the reed valve but I guaranty a dodgy reed valve will make running and tuning the bike a nightmare. Your reeds need to seal perfectly and open and close about 2-3 times a second so if any cracks, holes or damage to them then they will never seal correctly which will allow blow back through the carbi and incorrect air and fuel mix to be sucked into the motor. best solution buy a V force reed kit it replaces the entire cage and reeds just bolts in (4 bolts) I sell them for about $160 delivered, or if your know what you are doing then you can just replace the reed petals with new... About $60 ishwww.motoxpartsonline.com

If the console takes batteries, replace them. If this does not work or your console does not require batteries, check the reed switch or optic sensor. Reed Switch: Unplug the treadmill and remove the motor hood cover. The reed switch is mounted on the frame next to the front roller pulley. There is a magnet glued into the front roller pulley. When adjusting the reed switch, make sure it is pointing directly at the magnet. Move the tip of the reed switch within 1/8" of the magnet. Also, check to see that the wire is not damaged, and is connected to the console

fINALLY: Test the Optical Sensor if have it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-q-uS4t6so

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If you have oil coming out of the oil fill and dip stick you most likely installed the reed plate upside down. Usually it says this side up or there is an arrow pointing up on the reed plate.
This is a good sketch of compressor and reed valve assy.
http://www.about-air-compressors.com/images/1055.gif

Usually the reeds are on top of the plate facing downward. If you have just a reed disc.. then the disc will need to be inverted.

Thanks for Choosing FixYa.

Kelly

When factory reeds are not available, I generally use reed stock. What the heck is that you might ask. Reed stock is any material handy that will substitute for the factory reeds. I have used feeler gage material, reeds from other compressors cut down to size, hacksaw blades with saw edge ground off, rewind spring from various nailers and finally thin stainless steel sheets. You can be creative, all it needs to do is set nicely in the space provided. Another hint: Some reedvalve plates have one reed valve with several fingers acting over several matching ports. You can cut away the broken reedfinger leaving the remaining portion. Now you have an open port. All you need do is thread hole and apply treadlock to a piece of bolt cut to same thickness of plate. Good Luck

YEP IF THEY HAS ASTHMA OR BRONCHTIS PROBLEMS DUST NOT GOOD FOR ANY BODY TO BREATHE.BACK IN OLD DAYS LONG PERIODS OF DUST BREATHING CAN CAUSE LUNG FAILURE OR TUBERCULOSIS.

A reed switch or in some cases a speed sensor is locate by the front roller/pulley it could cylindrical or square looking.First you need to unplug the unit, then remove motor shroud inspect the reed switch to pulley distance ( no more than 3 credit card thickness) also inspect the pulley to see if the magnet is still attached to it. make the necessary adjustment. plug in the unit start it up. If it give you the same code then replace reed switch!

sounds like reed valves are bad,sometimes you can take the reed valves and flip them over for short fix,best to put new one in unit.

The reed valve assembly should hold solvent withot leaking. Remove for test. Disassemble and clean reeds and reed seat. Perfect seal is very important.

Good luck,
Techjoel

The Homelite 330 has a set of "reed valves" (thin fiberglass flaps held in a V shaped holder, narro end of the V point to the engine) in between the carburetor and the intake port of the cylinder.

Looke here http://books.google.com/books?id=ISzSHyegUSYC&pg=PA218&lpg=PA217&ots=TiCmMmPbXi&dq=330+operators+manual+homelite#PPA218,M1

then look at part #26 on page 218.

basically it does:

Airflow Reed Valve engine
----> >

Their function is to open slightly when the air is rushing through them toward the engine, and yet flap closed again to stop the backflow or air/fuel from going out of the cylinder. The sucking action of the engine lets the air slightly move the reed off of the small part of the "V" and the air flows in. As the airflow is reduced the mechanical tension of the reed, trying to remain flat and not bent, closes it.

Since they are flaps there is a momentary time then the air will rush out as they close. But you not should see "lots" of fuel coming out of the carburetor.

Two symptoms will cause excess fuel/air rushing out of the carb.
1. if they are old the reeds can be slightly warped and just not seal against the reed valve cage. That means replacing the reeds (if servicable) or the reed valve (cage and reeds together).
2. If any dirt or sawdust ever got into the engine, there could be some particles stuck between the reed valve and the cage. This is usually near the top of the reed valve and once it's in there, it can't get out. You can sometimes tage out the reed valve cage, remove the reeds and clean everything. The foam seal around the perimeter if the black top cover of the Homelite 330 usually breaks down over time and lets dirt/fine sawdust into the "Clean side" of the air system. You should see no dirt/sawdust or debrea around the carburetor.

In either event you would want to make sure that when you are lookin at the part that the reeds are perfectly seated on the reed valve cage. If not, you get the symptoms that you described.

Good luck!
Stuart