Bench Pro JS-2102. Base will not rotate to be able to cut at angles. Currently stuck at 2 degrees. Cannot turn to zero. Cannot locate manual online anywhere.

Distinti gi? check in internet forum the online manuale?

normally they do
they cut at angles across the material
there is also a adjustment at the back of the slide that allows the head to be tilted
there is an angle gauge there and a pointer to give you the tilt angle
by adjusting that and the across the bed angle , you can cut compound angles
set the angle and then test cut as the angle may not always be exact ( setting it on 10 degrees on the scale may be 10 1/2
degrees in reality so testing gets it dead right)
adjust as necessary

Did you check to see if the saw has a locking nut on the front of the bevel gauge handle? Its possible you just locked it into position and forgot to unlock.

Adjusting the miter angle involves two cast surfaces sliding against each other. If those surfaces have some irregularities, high spots on the two surfaces will bind against each other. You may have to disassemble the rotating table from the base and do some filing or grinding.

A compound miter saw has a rotating vertical pivot allowing the cutter head & blade to be tilted (or beveled) sideways in addition to the horizontally rotating table. This allows vertical & horizontal angled cuts as well as cuts angled in both planes.

Is there not a piece metal at screw handle to push down on top,or pull up on bottom, then rotate?

LIKELY the capacitor which is usually in the base is bad.

The capacitor shifts the phase angle in one of the two windings which creates a pseudo rotating field to start rotation.

Undid the RH fence-bolt in the table behind the fence and tapped the end of the fence forward to make it perpendicular to the blade. Tighten bolt. When you look down on the two fence bolt heads, one is easy to rotate with a socket wrench, the LH bolt head would be very, very difficult to move. Undo the RH bolt to swing the fence angle WRT the blade.

* The base plate can be tilted to make angled cuts. Most saws adjust from 90 degrees to slightly less than 45 degrees, making it possible to cut bevelled ends on boards for corning attachments, hip-roof rafter cuts, and even miters. Most saws are equipped with a thumbscrew or lever to loosen the bolt which keeps the saw blade on the correct angle for the cut you are making, located on the front of the saw. Some are also equipped with a scale which indicates the blade angle, from '0' (90 degrees, or square to the board surface) to 45 degrees. * The blade can be set to the depth required for individual cuts, from less than 1/8 inch to the full depth the blade is capable of penetrating. The lever or thumbscrew which locks the base plate at the desired height is usually located at the rear of the motor on the left side. * Many circular saws are equipped with a ripping fence, to guide the blade as you make a rip cut along the edge of a board, giving you a straighter, parallel cut. * Dust ejector. A few newer saws are equipped with a dust ejector to blow the sawdust away from the operator's face and from the mark where the cut is being made. * Laser tracking light. Some newer saws are equipped with a laser that projects a bright, red line down the path of the blade travel. These can also be purchased to retrofit on older units that are not factory equipped with them. * Blade guard. This should be considered a essential safety feature on any saw, and has two parts, the fixed guard over the top of the blade, and the floating guard, which rolls out of the way as the saw is pushed into the work piece. Some have a handle so the blade guard can manually be lifted for plunge cutting or easier viewing of the cutting mark.

If the game supports 900 deggree rotation it will turn on automatically.