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Re: Trying to get Capacitor Rating
What you have there is a VZ-2B chassis built in 1995. The caps you're looking at are in the regulator circuit 981 (22uf/50v) and 982/983 (47uf/50v) which is NOT the only problem you have there. I would strongly suspect that the regulator itself will need to be replaced and you might find anywhere from two to three dozen caps in that unit in need of replacement.
If you know how to ESR a cap and have the equipment go for it and let me know what you find. I would be surprised if you found even more than three dozen with high ESR.
If you're not that technically inclined take it to a repair center and have them estimate it before the work is done and discuss with them how many caps they find that are in need of replacement.
If they find less than 12 with high ESR they're not likely doing a very good job.
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There is no start capacitor, but there is a RUN capacitor. More than likely it will be a 'combination' run capacitor that shares the common terminal of a dual capacitor with a higher mfd side for the compressor. Typically a 35/5 or 40/5 rating is what you'll see on the side of the capacitor. It will be grey in color, possibly round or oval and near the size of a soda can.
What you are describing is a motor trying to start without the aid of its run capacitor, which momentarily allows a bit more amperage flow through the start winding than it does once the motor starts. This is what 'charges' the run capacitor, so turn off the power, note the position and terminals the wires are on, remove them with insulated pliers and short across ALL terminals to drain the potential charge before touching the spade clips with your bare fingers. Remove the capacitor and read the rating on the side for replacement. Contact just about any local HVAC company for a replacement or go to WWGrainger's website and see if you can buy one retail from them.
The three terminals will be marked 'C' for common, 'Herm' for compressor and 'F' or 'Fan' for the condensor fan. If you get any wire in the wrong place, you could potentially damage the compressor or the fan motor.
Turn power off.
Pull the leads off the capacitor.
Read off the capacitor the microfarad rating. (example 5 mfd or 5/30 mfd)
If the capacitor is oval it will have two sets of lead connections.
If the capacitor is round it could have three sets of lead connections.
On the oval capacitor, with a multimeter set on mfd, place one meter lead on one set of lead connections on the capacitor and the other lead on the other set of lead connections on the capacitor. Make sure you have a good connection. Read the mfd reading on the meter. It should be within 5-6% of the stated mfd of the capacitor.
On the capacitor with three sets of leads you will need to look at the top of the capacitor by the lead connections and find which lead is "c", which is "HERM", and which is "fan". Place your multimeter lead on "c"(common) and "herm" lead and take the reading, then take your leads and place on "C" and "fan" and take the reading. Compare these readings with the rated mfd stated on the side of the capacitor.
Look at the microfarad rating on the old capacitor and the new capacitor. Many are dual capacitors in one housing. The lower rating on your old capacitor is for the outdoor fan motor and the higher is for your compressor. It sounds to me like you have been sold a single capacitor when your unit had a dual capacitor originally.
NO. The capacitance must be the same. The voltage can be higher but never lower. So you will need a capacitor of 680uf 50v. A capacitor with a higher voltage rating will work. They just cost more.
So for the power supply; > Use ones with the Low Equivalent Series Resistance ESR rating > Use ones with the same farad rating > Use ones with the same or higher voltage rating > Use ones with high temperature rating Give this information to your parts supplier and they will get the right part.
If this is in a power supply application it will work as long as the voltage rating is the same and it will physically fit. If in some other area other than a power supply line to a circuit it may NOT work.
sounds like a bad capacitor. if you can spin the fan blade and it starts turning on its own and every 30 45 sec the compressor sounds like the compressor is trying to start you will need to replace the capacitor. if you remove the panel to expose the electrical controls. the capacitor is the large round canistor looking device. its rating will be stamped on the side, its probably a dual cap if both the fan and compressor arent starting in which case it will have three posts on top and the value will be listed like this 45-5-370or440 that would be 45uf for the compressor 5uf for the fan and 370 or 440 volt. on the top of the cap you will see C,FAN, and HERM, you must make sure the wires go back on the new just like on the old you also must make sure you capacitor rating of the new cap is the same rating as the old. post with more info or other observations and i will continue to help you if you need
If you see signs of leakage from a capacitor it is an indictaor it is bad. This is obvious because you will see dark fluid around it or the fluid maybe visible underneath it. Capacitors are rated by their value and their voltage rating. For example 100uf means 100 microfarad. Then you will see voltage rating, it may say 150V, and vice versa. It just means the capacitor cannot operate above that voltage or it will pop. Always replace capacitors with same value, for example if it is 100uf then replace it with that. The voltage rating, you can replace with either same voltage rating or higher. Hgiher voltage rating than original is actually better because it will last longer and may never have to replace them again. Makes sure you put them on right. Electrolytic capacitors are polarized(negative and positive side) A good circuit design would the capacitor voltage rating at least twice the operating voltage, but because of manufacturere trying to cut cost, they place one that is very close to the operating voltage, thats why we consumer end up with these problem. A higher voltage rating capacitor cost more thats the reason why. Sometimes it makes me think that it is done in purpose so the consumer buys another one. I worked on a tv where the capacitor is actually slightly lower than the operating voltage, that really don't make sense, at all.