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r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
There are 2 likely suspects: Bad timer, or electrical problem. There is no repair for bad timer, but timer has warranty through the manufacturer/ Malibu. Electrical: Since power pack worked correctly before, then outlet probably has correct polarity, but I always suggest checking outlet with circuit analyzer. Also plug lamp into same outlet and see if there is flickering that would indicate loose wire. Wiggle circuit breaker and see if lamp flickers. Move the outlet and see if lamp flickers. Outdoor outlets get loose wires because of exposure to temperature and dust and moisture. Replace outlet and don't use the quick connects, instead use screw terminals. If possible, move timer to different outlet on different breaker and see if problem persists.
I assume "trips the sockets out" means that the fuse or circuit breaker that supplies the power to the washer opens or moves to the "trip" position. I'll also assume it worked fine while plugged into this outlet before, too.
This indicates a "direct short circuit" or a very low resistance short circuit, and is potentially dangerous to people and property. Do NOT attempt to reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse to try it again. This appliance requires a professional repairman to locate and repair the problem before you should attempt to use it again.
Try the juicer on another circuit to see if the breaker failed altogether on the circuit you were using. It's possible that the machine is drawing more power than it should and may need to be checked by an appliance service dealer. An electrician can also check the power draw at the breaker to see if it is being overloaded. If the machine itself is defective, it should receive professional service. Good luck!
Hi, W/D here.
Try something else in the outlet. Most kitchens have ground fault outlet circuits, so you may have a tripped outlet breaker. These type of circuits can come from the panel through a ground fault circuit breaker, or they can go to the first outlet on a run of outlets. If the first outlet is ground fault protected, the others on that same run are protected as well. If another device will work in your coffeemaker outlet, the coffeemaker is probably dead. If another device will not work in the outlet, and your coffeemaker will work in a known, good outlet, you'll need to look at all of the outlets in your kitchen and bathrooms for an outlet with a "test" and a "reset" button on it. If your outlet is on that circuit, you will need to push the reset button to restore power to your coffeemaker's outlet.
Best regards, --W/D--
To diagnose your solution you need to check this steps that i can provide you
Check that the washer is plugged in securely
Check the circuit breaker of fuse box. "A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your electrical
circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault
occurs. When an electrical fault occurs or the load on your circuit
becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the
flow of current to that circuit. A tripped circuit breaker is still
sometimes referred to as a "blown fuse" in reference to the older
technology that circuit breakers replaced. If your home uses an actual
fuse and not a circuit breaker."
Test the outlet for current. You can test an outlet to determine if current can flow with a voltage
tester. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before
use. If you don't have a voltage tester, simply use a shop light or
other convenient electrical device. Start by making sure the tester is
working and plug it into a circuit you know is working. Note that if
you need to test a 220V outlet, these instructions do not cover that
If there is no voltage, make certain that the outlet isn't
controlled by a switch. Try all nearby switches and check whether the
tester lights up.
If you are troubleshooting an outlet that isn't working, some possibilities include:
The fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. Click on the following links for more information on replacing fuses and resetting circuit breaker.
The outlet may be in a circuit with a GFCI outlet (ground fault circuit interrupt). If the GFCI outlet has tripped, it
may cause other outlets on the same circuit to lose current. Look for
an outlet that has a "Test" and "Reset" button. They are often located
near water such as in a bathroom or kitchen. If the outlet has been
tripped, unplug anything that may have caused the fault and then press
the "Reset" button.
wire connection has become loose. A wiring fault can occur in many
places, the most common include the outlet box, another outlet or
junction box the wire passes through or at the circuit breaker.
Outlets can wear out, a replacement may be needed.
4. Check that the water supply valves are turned
on 5. Inspect the filter screen. 6. Test for overheating 7. Test the water level switch 8. Test the timer control 9. Test the lid switch 10.Test the water inlet valve
Best answer to this is the circuit outlet is connected to is overloaded < to many items are plugged into it > could be 15-20 watt breaker and usage amounts to more than wattage allowence. If you can lighten the load on circuit by removing things < t.v.,appliances,lights,etc.> from the other outlets that are affected < shutting down when breaker trips > then you can compromise and use washer any time. The other suggestion is to dedicate a breaker to washer, < by adding breaker and wiring to outlet for washer >.
if the machines are both on the same outlet i would attempt to run them on seperate outlets first to see if it improves. as time lapses breakers or gfi's can weaken and a continous amp draw esp. in the spin and the ignition stage at the same time which are the largest amp draw from either machine at any give time could be causing the issue. if this does not work you need a tech to look at it