Mfg. date of browning blr rifle in 308 caliber ser # 06452k70

http://www.browning.com/support/date-your-firearm.html

http://www.browning.com/support/date-your-firearm/blr-lever-action-rifle.html

Unable to determine

Savage had a long history or caliber changes with that rifle. Anything from for .303 Savage, .30-30 Winchester, .300 Savage, .25-35 Winchester, .250 Savage (also called the .250-3000 Savage, .22 Hi Power, .22-250 Remington, .243 Winchester, .308 Winchester, .358 Winchester, 7mm-08 Remington, .284 Winchester, .38-55 Winchester, .32-40 Ballard, .375 Winchester

The most common stamp showing c3 was for 22

hi Anonymous.

I've been through several possibilities on the Browning 'Date Your Gun' website at
Browning Date Your Gun The most promising is here:
22 Semi Auto Rifle The codes here are consistent with the one you put up, and describes itself as the '22 Semi-Auto Rifle'

From this document, single digit before the T indicates manufacture between 1956 and 1967. The T means 'Long Rifle Caliber'. The remaining digits are the serial number. Since they started with a four digit number, and yours is close to 100,000, I'd guess closer to the end of that era than the beginning. Later than that and the serial would start with two digits for year of manufacture. Earlier than that, there are no serial number records. Manuals can be found here :
http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/22semiautomanual.pdf

Hoping this answers your question!
D

Is the bolt lost or or broken?

It may be difficult to find a standalone bolt, but .243 is based on the .308 cartridge so any caliber that is based on the .308 will work: .243, .260, .308, 7mm-08, etc, etc, etc.

If the bolt is simply damaged, it may be easier to repair it than to replace it.

Check Numerich. They're currently listed as sold out on their site, but it might be worth making a phone call and checking with them to see if they have any or can get one.

Also, check gunbroker listings regularly. It's unlikely that you'll find just a bolt, but you might be able to locate a good 'donor gun', and then part out the rest of it.

You'll still want to be sure and have a competent gunsmith check headspacing after you replace the bolt, just to ensure that they are a safe combination. Any time you replace a bolt you need to check headspace. If the headspacing isn't correct, a good smith will be able to set it correctly with a small amount of machine work.

Here's what I found at the NRA museum site. Since it has no letters in the Ser # it was made in 1962. Your Ser# info is on page 4.
http://www.nramuseum.com/media/940941/serialization-date%20of%20manufacture.pdf

Here's some links to websites that show prices:

http://www.empirearms.com/K31.htm

http://www.classicfirearms.com/k31-rifles

http://www.gunsamerica.com/965782583/SCHMIDT_RUBIN_K31_SWISS_RIFLE.htm

Here's a sight with a lot of info about them:

http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/

Rap it on its nose. Us a good screw driver and just give it a tap, not so hard to dent it but a good smack. with the handle. If this does not work remove it smack it, then remount, putting the rings is a small bit different location.