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When i open the hot water faucet it sounds like air trapped in the lines

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A typical cause of this problem is a loose washer on the end of the stem.
Turn angle stop off on the hot water side of faucet, take hot stem out of faucet and check the washer on the end of the stem. I'll bet you find it's loose!

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do I fill system


Open hot water handle farthest from the water heater. Turn water on that fills the water heater. It will take several minutes to fill the tank. Let it continue to run until all air is out of line. Turn all other hot faucets on to purge air from lines.

Mar 02, 2015 | Water Heaters

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Hot Water Pressure from taps


Hard water deposits from the water heater in the supply lines to the faucets. Sounds like your water heater needs to be cleaned out -- not just drained of water. You need to get inside and clear out the deposits in the bottom of the tank. You also need to remove the hot water supply lines to your faucets and see of you can get the lines to run free from the deposits -AFTER you clean out the water heater. Remove the drain -put on a 3/4 in. ball valve for the drain and a hose bibb on that - you can hook up a 5/8 - or 3/4 inch hose to get the particles out of the drain of the water tank. You may have to blow back the water line, from the faucets, the hot water lines- to get the deposits out of the water lines. You also may have to blow out the faucets with the water line disconnected to clear the calcium out of the hot side of the faucet.

Feb 18, 2014 | Water Heaters

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How to clear Major plumbing clogs


I am assuming that you are referring to a calcium or rust build up in the water heater.
If you are having this issue you will need to turn off the water to the heater. You will need a garden hose, access to a outside water soucre, cold water is fine.
Shut off the gas or power to the hot water heater before starting.
Now you will need to place the garden house on the drain fitting on the water heater, placing the end of the hose outside and lower than the drain valve. Open the valve and drain the heater, you will need to open a hot water faucet to help drain the heater. I don't suggest opening the TPR ( Temp Pressures relief )valve due to the fact that they sometimes leak or don't reseal after opening them.
Hopefully the drain valve is not clogged, you should hear and see water exiting the garden hose.
If you are not getting any water from the drain valve you are going to have a challenging task.
If no water is coming out, my recommendation is to get the required tools to remove the hot water line from the top or side or the heater, also a few towels to soak up water A bucket is helpfull also.
remove the hot water line, then you will have to use a small hose to siphon the water from the tank. Once the tank is empty you can then remove the drain valve and replace it.
once you have replaced the drain valve you should ensure that it's closed and use a Gallon of CLR. Poor this into the water heater through the hot water outlet where you removed the pipe from. Now make sure the faucets are closed and replace the hot water line. You can now turn the water back on to the water heater.
After a few minutes open a hot water faucet to let out any air until water flows out, than close the faucet.
Let the water heater set for a few hours, then drain the tank!
when the tank drains, close the drain valve again and refill the water heater. Once again open a a hot water faucet and let the air out till the water heater fills. Again let sit for a hour.
At this point open a hot water faucet at the farthest point from the heater and let the water run for 5 min. , than close it and move to the next closest faucet and repeat until all faucets have been opened and run for 5 minutes.
If you still have a slow flow in a faucet, you may need to repeat the CLR step.
I also suggest that you remove all faucet screens and clean them.
If you still have a clog than you are going to have to remove or replace a piece of water line in the house. The blockage may be hard to find but if you have access to most of the pipe or it's visable you may be able to hear the blockage with the water on. Otherwise this will result in using some water line taps and a pressure guage to find the blockage.

Oct 17, 2013 | Mountain Plumbing Water Heaters

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Squeeling sound and lower pressure from gas water heater


Probably the factory-installed heat trap nipples are clogged.
Open following links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
Noisy whistling and humming and low pressure are common problem with heat trap nipples and inserts from factory.
Replace heat-trap nipples with pex-lined nipples, or remove heat trap inserts with screwdriver or needle nose... careful not to break insert so it falls into tank ... which can then get lodged in hot water line elbow or under-sink shut off.
Factory-installed heat traps are part of overall strategy so manufactures can claim more efficient water heaters, without requiring customers to any thinking.
Other strategies include foam insulation instead of fiberglass (so that wires cannot be replaced on electric units), reducing factory-set temperature from previous 130-135 to 100-120, and re-estimating downward the hot water use for average family.
So some of the strategies are useful, while others problematic or imaginary.
Call manufacturer to pay-for or provide new pex-line nipples. Warranty for fist year covers Labor and parts, and after 1st year, warranty covers parts
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Save $10 a month in future replacement costs: maintain water heater so it lasts longer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html

Apr 25, 2013 | Rheem Tankless water heater for 1-2...

1 Answer

Heat Trap Nipple which side into the tank


Don't install heat trap nipples if house has pressure issues, or pipes get clogged with hard water.
Heat traps will clog, and whistle, hum, buzz, and reduce household pressure.
Make your own heat traps by configuring pipes differently.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#heat-trap
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap

Buy regular di-electric nipples at local box store plumbing department instead of heat trap nipples.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/IMG_1879-di-electric-nipple-300.jpg

If you go ahead and install the heat-trap nipples, look inside the nipple.
Look past the plastic bar that divides down middle.
Notice that one end has insert inside the pipe. While other end does not have insert.
End with insert goes into water heater first.

Notice also if you blow into the heat trap nipple that air flow is constricted.
If air flow is constricted, then water will also be constricted.
This is why heat trap nipples are not recommended.

Why do they have heat trap nipples??
So manufacturers can report higher EF energy efficiency rating for product.

Do heat traps save money. Yes, but make your own by reconfiguring pipes. Save $9.20 per year electric heater, $4.00 per year gas heater.
You can save more money by maintaining water heater, which pays about 10$ per month in future replacement costs.
Or fix leaks, and install dual-handle faucets so lifting single handle faucet in middle does not continually run cold water into tank. This saves $2-$8 per month.

Nov 27, 2012 | Richmond Heat Trap Nipple Kit - RP20003

1 Answer

When the pump is running, if I turn on the cold water faucet the check valve opens and closes rapidly making a loud knocking sound. This problem only developed after four years of trouble-free operation.


Clean out check valve with CLR calcium-lime-rust and see if functionality is restored.
Problem can also be caused by air bubble inside the line, caught at the check valve. Dissemble and reassemble parts. Install air vent.
Another option is to install direct return line with in-line check valve and air vent.
Parts can also be ordered.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

Jul 24, 2011 | Laing Thermotech Autocirc Undersink...

1 Answer

I have a humming and knocking that is happening in my pipes. It seems to be related to my hot water heater. I have unplugged the heater and that helps most of it, but there are still times during the day...


Knocking water pipes are caused by air trapped in the pipe. If the pipe only went uphill and horizontal, the air releases out of the faucet and doesn't cause a problem. But if the pipe takes a turn back down, there is an opportunity for the air to remain trapped. Try this ---. Turn on all of your hot water faucets full blast at the same time. Start with the highest faucet farthest from the hot water tank and work your way back to the one closest to the hot water tank. Count to ten, then close them in reverse order. If that doesn't clear the air, then look for a place where the pipe travels horizontally then back down. If such a place is accessible, and if the pipe is copper, buy a self-piercing tap of the type that are used to supply water to an ice maker. Install it and let some water out and hopefully some air out. If you also attach a section of clear hose you and you open the valve very slowly, you will be able to see the air bubbles in the hose. I use just such a setup on my hot-water heating system and it works like a champ. Good luck!

Nov 26, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Hot water does not last long. Model 82vh40-2 mnf. 05/2005


If the lower heating element burns out the upper element will heat the top part of the tank then shutoff. homw depot/lowes etc should carry elements. 1 turn off breaker, remove element access cover (the 2 panels on the front of the heater) test for electricity at the reset button ( uppermost device in upper panel) to make sure power is off. 2 turn off water (I usually turn off the cold water main to stop water cross feeding into hot supply line back into heater) 3 disconnect the 2 wires on the lower element, test with continuity tester. shhould be no continuity between terminals and tank, but around 10 ohms between the 2 terminals. Check the thermostat for continuity if tank is cold thermostat should be closed ie zero ohms across the 2 terminals.
If stat is bad replace stat; disconnect wires push it up out of the spring clip insert new stat reconnect. If element is bad: drain tank. connect garden hose to tank drain valve, open tank drain valve turn water main on to clear rust sediment and get water flowing. Next remove filter screen from a hot water faucet then turn on ( a hot faucet upstairs or higher than tank drain). Now turn water main off, air will now go in through hot faucet and tank will drain, takes about an hour. Use a water heater element wrench about$10 to remove element(s) make sure no bits of rubber gasket are left in element opening- dig em out with a screwdriver if needed. Insert new element with its gasket and tighten. reconnect wires DO NOT TURN ON ELECTRICITY! BE SURE TO FILL WATER HEATER WITH WATER ! Turn water main back on -air will come out of the hot faucet for several minutes. When water runs without any air sputtering, turn off faucet and replace the faucet filter screen. check element(s) for leaks. turn breaker back on.

Feb 17, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

I have a amtrol proline pressure tank model ca17255 with air in the water part of the tank. how do you get the air out. thanks


the water heater should have a value on it. connect a hose pipe to it, run hose out door or window, then open value. need to open bathtube faucet.(cold) let it run until air gone, then go around and open all cold and hot faucets one at a time to remove all air in lines.

Aug 20, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

1993 gm 28ft allegro bay rv water heating system just got it and dont know how to turn on hot water can u help


chk for shut off valve to heater , open if closed. Open hot water faucet and listen for water pump. if pumping givre it time to fill heater tank and start runnuing out offaucet. Air will be purged as pump fills the lines and heater. Shoer and bath need hot faucets open also to purgr air.

Apr 24, 2009 | Water Heaters

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