I used my self cleaning feature the oven has cooled down and unlocked itself now my stovetop will not-heat up?

Number one Tip, NEVER use self cleaning cycles. They only exist to break ovens and sell parts.

Try disconnecting the mains after about 10 minutes of cool down time. If that doesn't work, you will need a service call to correctly diagnose if the lock solenoid has failed or you need a new control board.

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If the oven display is showing LOC, then the lockout feature was enabled. Press and hold the key pad with the padlock symbol for 3+ seconds. This is just below the Timer On/Off key pad and to the right of the Light key pad. You should see the word DOOR and the padlock icon flash until the door is unlocked and the control panel is released.

If the word DOOR and the padlock icon are lit, then the oven is in the self-clean mode. The lock should release after you cancel the self-cleaning cycle by pressing off and the oven cools down (at least one hour). Unfortunately, sometimes the heat of the self-clean cycle will damage the oven. Either the oven temperature sensor will not give the release signal or the door lock will not disengage. In that case, the oven needs to have the correct part serviced.

The documentation for the Frigidaire FGGS3065PF is available on the product page at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-Gallery-30-in-4-5-cu-ft-Slide-In-Gas-Range-with-Self-Cleaning-Convection-Oven-in-Stainless-FGGS3065PF/204759413 . See page 15 for the Oven Lockout feature. See page 28 for the self-cleaning information.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Ok,... First, and foremost, stop using the self clean. It takes the temperature up to 900 deg F, and creates all sorts of other problems with the lock motor and the walls and the bake/broil elements. Use a Low odor Easy-off spray cleaner to clean your oven from now-on, please.

Now, the bake element needs to be replaced. If you have the model number (found on the body of the Range behind the lower drawer, if you pull it out) I can look-up the manufacturer's suggested part to be replaced. You may also need to replace the broil element, but that usually is the last element to burn-out as most people don't use the broil function of an oven.

You will have to pull the range away from the wall, and unplug it before you attempt to replace any parts. No need to have 240 VAC/30 Amps running through your body. There are several black 1/4" screws that secure the back panel on the oven section to the body (about 6 to 8) and they will have to be removed to pull and replace the wires on the oven bake and/or broil elements. You will also have to go to the oven door (on the front of the range) open it, and remove the two 1/4" screws that secure each element to the body before you can change-out the element(s). The most popular bake elements for GE Ovens are part #WB44K10005 and/or WB44T10010, but there are other Bake elements. Will need the model of your Range to ID the correct element and the cost.

Now as for the rest of the burners on the stovetop not working, they are usually independent from the oven functions, which are wired into the controller in the center of the range control console, but there are a couple of GE models that wired the stove burners into the oven timer/controller. If this is the case, then you may also need to replace the oven timer/controller.

If the stove elements are independent and are only wired to the Infinite switches that control the front left, rear left, front right, rear right burners, than the problem is either with the actual radiant heat burner elements or the infinite switches that independently control each burner. I would still need a model number for the Range to help you more with this.

Hope this is of some help.

Dave

you might have to clean it YOURSELF....
umm, power down at circuit breaker for a minute, power up, reset clock and try again.
otherwise wait a few days.

The Door should automatically unlock once the oven Cools down enough to Finish wiping oven out to finish cleaning.

Hi,
First, turn off the breaker and stop that thing...the self clean or self destruct feature has caused damage....
The ONLY reason that ovens are made to self clean is because people are inherently lazy...why do something that is hard labor when it can do it its self....but the self cleaning is done through very high heat and this causes damage to the internal wiring and controls also....
Hopefully when the oven cools down it will unlock and you will be okay. You may have to call the customer service number to find out how to get it unlocked and restarted...they know very well how to walk you through this...it is not an uncommon problem, but consumer demands run the market place...

Check out this tip also that I wrote about this problem....

Self Cleaning Oven Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101
Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

Hello - we have had this same issue a number of times as well. Do you lose all power on the unit too? We do - have discovered that using the self-cleaning isn't really a good idea with these ovens. The ovens aren't really made to heat to such high heats that are used in the cleaning cycle and during that last hour of cleaning it hits it highest peak - and it blows it's fuses. We recently blew 2 fuses at the same time, locking both doors (Double oven) and knocking out the power for the entire unit. Our repair man said that the average on wall ovens is anywhere between 6 - 12 cleanings before you will blow the same fuses and the whole cycle starts all over again. Our expense was $350. So, self-cleaning now means elbow grease around this house. How this information was a bit helpful for you.

Don't open or try to open the oven door, until it has cooled down completely. The oven heats to a very hot temperature, usually 800 to 900 degrees. The door locks itself once it gets to a certain temperature, and will not allow the door to be opened until it cools below a certain temperature. On some units, this can take hours to cool down enough to unlock. If you try to force it before the cooldown is complete, it usually results in a repair call. If it still will not unlock when it is cool, turn your power to the oven off for 20 minutes, then turn on and reset your oven controls. Sometimes you have to put the oven back into the self-cleaning cycle, and then cancel it immediately to cycle the oven door lock. If it still won't unlock, call a repair company out to service this. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

most newer ovens have to be programmed for how long the unit should clean for. usually need 3 hours to get hot enough to clean the spills. after that it needs another 45 minutes or so to cool down to allow the door to unlock and let you open it.