There is a ventilator mechanism on the top right corner, behind the control panel / front cover. ******TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE STARTING, BE SURE POWER IS OFF ****** Open the door; remove all of the screws that hold just the front panel (not the controls panel). These screws are located on the inside of the door, around the outer edges. The front door panel will be able to be removed. Close the door with the front panel removed. ***IMPORTANT be sure nobody will come in contact with the exposed wiring (especially little kids) ********* Turn back on the breaker, turn on the washer, and run a quick rinse cycle. See where the water is coming from. On my washer (same model) i had to replace the entire vent kit (sears parts ~$40.00) Call them with your model and serial number, or search online. Removal and replacement was very easy, and it did fix my leaking problem. Checked with the front door panel off and a quick rinse before I TURNED POWER BACK OFF and put the front cover back on. Root cause?? From what I can tell, the solenoid stopper hardens over time, which allows for water from the spray arms to leak past. Get it fixed now before you smoke the motor or control card. My part number was ABT35083501 be sure to double check model before purchasing.
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Hello Barbara, I have one of these dishwashers and this is what happens. There is a drip tray in the bottom of the machine that catches any leaked water. There is a float switch in the drip tray that detects water in the tray. If there is water in the tray, the float switch turns on the drain pump. This will immediately pump all of the water out of the machine and keep the pump running until you remove the water from the drip tray. The pump only pumps out the machine but does not pump from the drip tray. Also the pump will keep running even if the door is open or if the machine cycle is stopped. The only way to stop the pump is to turn off the electricity supply. But also turn off the water supply at the same time, because if the valve that feeds water into the machine is faulty, it will fill the machine till it overflows and if the power is off the float valve cannot turn on the drain pump. On this machine, the solenoid valve that let\'s water into the washer is at the end of the inlet pipe when is connects to the water supply. It is powered by line voltage (230 volts in our case). If this is faulty, it can be replaced with a commercial solenoid valve. The is a two core cable running inside the outer plastic pipe on the inlet pipe. This carries the power to the solenoid valve. To empty the water from the drip tray, remove the panel from the front of the washer. It is below the front door and has two screws on each end. When you remove this you will see a hole on the left that is big enough to put your finger through and feel if there is water in the tray. If there is, push through a small plastic pipe and suck out the water. It does not take much water to switch on the float valve, maybe the door was not closed properly and some water leaked into the bottom of the unit. I gained the above knowledge by bitter experience.
I have had the exact same issue and its not a samsung issue but any modern fridge with a defrost system in the freezer (fridge doesn't generally frost up as its not run at freezing temperatures.
You need to check a few things: 1. Clear the freezer draws out and clear any ice build up. 2. Be careful and unclip the first white plastic vent panel (hint: pull from the middle an inch or two then push the sides in so the tabs are pulled towards the middle and the panel pops out) 3. Unscrew and unclip the 2nd panel (holds the circulation fan) to view the freezer coils - you will need to unclip the power for the fan and the heating coil for the drip tray under the freezing coils. 4. This is where the issue usually is:
If the tray is full of ice then do the following. If not and you can poor water through the drain hole on the bottom, then the issue is a dead sensor or control board - seek professional advice or if your game, there are swap out kits you can buy.
So the drip tray is full of ice ? Unscrew the freezer coils from the back wall but DO NOT touch it any further in case you damage it. There should be some silver tape tape that holds the tray in place - remove it and then gently lift the coils up to allow the tray out. If its too full of ice, use a hair dryer or warm water to de-ice. Once the tray is out, defrost it completely and dry it - be careful not to damage the heating wires under the tray as this is used to deice it during a normal defrost cycle. Clear any remaining ice on the coils or along the back wall - Dry it well.
Usually the cause for the drip tray to freeze up is a blockage in the drain pipe that empties into the back of the fridge. Unscrew the back panel and you will see 2 soft plastic pipes drain water into a water tray. pull both off and clean/inspect. You will notice they pinch in the middle to stop air getting back in, but allows water to drip out. If they are blocked, they will back fill the internal drains and freeze, thus fooling the fridge into thinking it hasn't defrosted yet and not turning the compressor back on. (Since this ice is hidden at the back, it is the last to melt thus the freezer gets warmer waiting for the insulated ice near the drain to melt.
When I did my freezer, the water is dripping out slowly (it was cold) but once I removed the pipe, it emptied properly. inspection of the pipe showed dirt/insect blocking the pinched section of the pipe.
Reassemble the pieces in reverse order, ensuring the water was been dried with a cloth. My fridge/freezer hasn't skipped a beat since.
I had a similar problem with my Whirlpool model 6ED25DQFW side by side refrigerator/freezer with ice maker/water dispenser. Water was slowly pooling under the refrigerator under the freezer section. The defrost drain pipe was not blocked, the condenser fan was running, the drip pan was not leaking. The source of the leak was found to be the icemaker solenoid block plastic body which had a pinhole leak. To fix requires either plastic welding, or replacement of the solenoid block plastic body. To access the solenoid block firstly requires removal of the cardboard cover, located at the lower rear of the refrigerator.
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
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Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan. This is the only source of water if nothing else is connected. Are you seeing and water anywhere.
You will have to bust out the ceiling where the dripping is occuring to get to the pipes. Before doing so, check and see if your house was built with an access door for the valves. (Look on the other side of the wall where the valves are.) I have the very same problem and am going through ceiling replacement after repairing the pipes. It is a mess. Good luck.
This water comes from a plugged up defrost drain tube. Do you see like a cup at the back of your refrigerator connecting using a plastic tube in a hole at the back of your refrigerator ? This cup collects dripping water from your freezer during a defrost cycle - you will notice a hole above it on the ceiling - what drips into this cup and drains out back the hole in your refrigerator wall and into a long drain tube extending down into the drip pan at the bottom of your refrigerator, usually sits ontop of the compressor or in newer systems next to the condenser fan and evaporates. If this drain tube is plugged up with debris water will backflow back into your fridge and drip against the wall and under your cripsers.
During a defrost cycle (when you hear the sizzling sounds and all motors are off, open the door and you should notice water dripping.
If you can manually remove the cup yourself you can pass a piece of pipe cleaner or long cable and dislodge whatever is blocking it or if you can't do that you will need to have it serviced, sometimes there is a seal around base of the plastic tube it's best you don't touch or break it. Makes ure the cup is firmly connected and inserted into the hole, you can try raising the fridge a bit, the front part so it is slightly inclined to back. If all fails, have it serviced, it is a very simply problem easy to repair and common too.
dry out the area thoroughly and restart the machine to see if fuse blows with it dry - i'm not convinced this is the cause.
the part you are referring to i think is the drain pump and these do lewak sometimes. the other place to look is at the door boot which if it is holed can cause water to drip down in the same area