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Re: pump leaks not to much pressure and when i you the...
Hello rr61 If the pump is leaking you will not get pressure. You need to get the leak fixed. Where is it leaking from? Leaning back to star and run sounds like the motor oil is low. You are "tricking " the low oil sensor. I would change the oil and be sure it has the correct amount.
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it still needs priming all the way down to the foot valve
try putting a hose fitting in the primer hole and with a good water supply ( tank, garden hose ) turned on run the pump until you get a good supply the turn of the primer hose
if you have an air leak the pump will stop pumping after a few seconds as it sucks in the air and the prime is lost
could indicate that there is no water at the foot valve
Probably a valve in the priming system is stuck. It allows fuel to flow into the bulb from the tank, the valve should close then and allow the bulb pressure to spray into the carburetor. Could also be the opening into the carburetor from the prime bulb is blocked.
Does the engine run fine after it starts? Most common problem with primer bulb losing prime is an air leak in the fuel line or primer bulb. Air leaks don't always leak fuel. If there is an air leak between the primer bulb and gas tank there is no pressure, only vacuum. If it is not a major leak it might not leak without pressure but it will allow air to enter the fuel line. If it is a very minor air leak it could allow air to replace the liquid in the fuel line over time, but so little air once it is primer again that the fuel pump can over come it with volume of fuel.
Primer bulbs do not stay firm, as they are when initially pumped up, after the engine is running. There are check valves in the primer bulb that hold pressure in the primer bulb and throughout the fuel line to the engine. Once the engine starts the fuel pump creates vacuum drawing fuel into the engine diminishing this pressure and releasing the check valves. At this point the primer bulb is just another segment of fuel hose allowing fuel to pass through it as the fuel pump demands. The primer bulb functions much better when the outlet side is higher than the inlet side. This position makes it easier for the check valves in the primer bulb to seat and release as needed. If the primer bulb is functioning properly and is positioned with the outlet side higher than the inlet it should not be necessary to cover the end of the fuel hose with your thumb to get it to prime.
If the engine is hard to start after being fully primed there could be a problem with the fuel system on the engine. Some engines are hard to prime once air has entered the system, especially fuel injected models.
When priming a carburetor, the vacuum created by the bulb is pulling the fuel through a long circuit that includes subsystems which wear and begin to leak over time.
In some cases, it can be as simple as a fuel line that has begun to crack or has completely broken. In these cases, the engine may prime and run normally when the fuel tank is completely topped, but it will begin to run or prime erratically once the level drops.
In others, it may be a leaking main jet, low speed check valve, or an accelerator pump (pumps are usually found on higher end equipment). These three are generally not repairable without special pressure/vacuum testing, proprietary tools, unusual parts, and retesting.
This is why most shops will not even offer lengthy carburetor rebuilds when a new one is usually $50 or less. These three issues can also cause a lean condition that will eventually destroy the piston and cylinder, so it is not recommended to operate any engine with these problems.
Many higher end Zama carburetors in production today don't offer a low speed check valve from the dealer, so this type of failure is not repairable and the carburetor can only be replaced.
The two check valves in the carburetor's primer flange (or remote fuel bulb assembly) must also function properly for the entire fuel system to work properly. The function of these two can be seen on cheap brands that use clear fuel lines. Make sure the bubbles are traveling in one direction with no reversal as the bulb is released.
If the primer flange or remote pump assembly is all that is failing, the unit can still be operated with no fear of lean issues that can cause expensive damage. Expect to pull that starter rope several more times to get the unit running.
I recommend inspecting the cylinder and piston to be sure there is no scoring or visible damage before attempting to diagnose or repair anything. Carefully remove the muffler, rotate the crank, and use a small flashlight to inspect all of the internal surfaces. If all is well and the fuel lines are in good shape, swap the carburetor and fuel pickup (filter) for new ones. This is usually feasible for units that aren't plagued with other issues.
Pressure washers do this due to a valve called the 'unloader'. It's purpose is to relieve pressure from the pump when not in use so it is not under continuous strain, but there is also a pressure switch linked to the motor that will fire it up if the pressure drops to low so your washer is always primed and ready for action. This means tht the unloader relieves the pressure, then the electric pressure switch pumps it again to keep the pressure high. If it is doing it a couple of times a minute I wouldn't worry, but if it is every few seconds it would indicate to me that the pump is losing pressure constantly somewhere. Main reasons would be;
It could be a weak unloader, which is basically a strongish spring and a couple of plates and seals, but would normally come as a kit or complete valve.
A leaky seal in or around the pump. If this was the case you should see water leaking from the unit somewhere and then you could pin point the worn/damaged seal and replace it. Most washers have seal kits and it is advisable to replace seals in this way as it saves time later (especially if a worn seal, others will be wearing out too).
Failed non return valve. In the pump head there are normally two non return valves per piston (one directly after the piston and one a bit deeper into the outlet side) and also a couple in the back end of the pump head. These basically allow the pressurised water to be pushed through the pump and stop it flowing back into the cylinder set. If the water can flow back as well as forwards it will not keep pressure (like blowing a balloon up but not holding it shut between breaths). Non return valves will normally be supplied as a set and will be assembled already so just push into place when the pump head is apart. You would not see a leak if thesse valves are perished as the water will just flow back toward the source instead of out of the machine anywhere.
If you have a leak the bulb will not prime. Over time the either the rubber on the primer bulb gets a pin hole in it requiring bulb replacement or one of the fuel lines cracks and introduces air into the lines. Unless the system is completely sealed the primer bulb will not work. Make sure all of the connections on the fuel lines are tight and correct the system leaks.
Usually electric pressure washers only have oil on the pump, so its very likely that you will find the problem there. I'd say check all the pump seals and if that doesnt solve the problem, you can check to see if all bolts are tight when you close the pump back. If by any chance you are looking for a new machine and/or parts for your machine, log in to www.roncoshop.com where you will be able to find pretty much anything for your preassure washer.
I have a Karcher K 3.86 M electric PW with a similar problem: water leaks from the pump near the outlet and the pressure surges on and off continuously at intervals of 1-2 seconds. The leak appears to be coming from a very thin crack in the plastic pump head in what I think is the "unloader" valve portion. I read elsewhere that if you leave water in these PW's and it freezes it will crack, causing leaks. I don't know how you can empty all the water out so I think we must store these PW's in areas that won't freeze in winter.