Hobart sr24c is leaking water out the bottom of the door during operation.

Full parts list here, but from my 52 years in the hospitality trade, Hobart washers need professional diagnosis and repair. Your unit has a 'Chemical Detection Box', but only the engineers will know how or what it detects.

also see page 6, items 17 and 18, and 20 Timer Relays. Part 17 is specific to detergent and rinse, so replace that first.

CTRL+F shows the machine has 7 relays
https://www.hobart.com.mx/pdf/CatPartes/F43078RevA_Lk.pdf

..

Try running the hot water into the sink immediately before you turn on your dishwasher. That will get hot water from your heater to dishwasher faster & help with the sanitizing cycle heat

Hobart LXEH

looks like an expensive dishwasher... most probably a water valve or control module... but a

FULL MODEL NUMBER would be really helpful...

Pretty please!


http://hobart.com/dishwasher
New Hobart Lxeh 2 Undercounter Dishwasher Hot Water Sanitizing Free...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-Kitchenaid-Hobart-Dishwasher-Water-Inlet-Valve-4162119-240343-1-/201260691964?hash=item2edc1271fc:g:fpEAAOSwk5FUsA5e

Vintage NOS Kitchenaid Hobart Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve 4162119 240343 1

chemical pump malfunction or chemical run out.

Do you realize that to sanitize with hot water alone requires 180 degree F water? I am a hobart technician and I've never seen any business or residence with hot water anywhere near that. Residential hot water is generally approx. 120, Commercial locations generally use approx. 140, but never near 180 (tap water that hot would be a severe safety problem). Hobart LXIH machines use a built in booster heater to boost the temperature of the incoming hot water up to the required 180 deg.

first make sure the unit is tipped back higher in the front. also ck. incoming water pressure with fill soleniod open should be 20 p.s.i

http://www.hobartservice.com

I thought it was designed for domestic bleach at 5.25%, and looking for a solution of 50 ppm of sanitizer and rinse water. Either the elbow is blocked, or the silicone tube in the pump has collapsed. Use rubber gloves and face protection when working on chemical tubing.

If this is a new occurance, and not "since it was installed", it may be the drain impellor. Little fins on top of the impellor sometimes get worn off. It is under the lower wash arm in the pump housing. The only trick to taking the pump apart is not loosing any of the shims.

Go to page 12.
http://www.hobartlink.com/extranet/extranetmanualsandcatalogs.nsf/860F7951C087BD7F85256D36004978EA/$File/F43078.pdf

Also, (and most likely if the unit looses water during the wash cycle), any obstruction to the drain valve can cause it to not drain proper. The drain valve uses a little flapper valve to drain the unit. It has a rubber stopper that needs to properly close. The drain valve is at the front of the unit with a red coil and white plastic body. It needs to be closely inspected. (page 22)

If this is a problem since it has been installed, it is likely due to the running of the external drain line. (Too high)

Goto to this site http://www.hobartcorp.com/default.aspx.Find a office near you and you can order the part.