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When starting a wash cycle the washer fills only a couple of inches then goes into spin cycle and shuts off when done spinning. Will not run the wash cycle.
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oL is an Overload error. Try running a cycle empty.
If oL (overloaded) appears in display, the load too large. If an overload is detected, the washer will drain any water and detergent in the washer. Remove several items and add HE detergent. Close lid and press START/PAUSE.
Dear William, I guess first you have to check if the start switch is shorted. When you turn on the machine, does it automatically go into cycle? If yes, then your start switch is faulty. Otherwise, you may have to replace your timer/sequencer.
I have a problem with my MW512AU. Sometimes it drains after wash cycle, but sometimes it sticks when it goes to spin, doesn't get up to speed, water comes on for about 10 seconds and shuts off, and it tries to spin again. If I hit the wash progress switch it goes directly to final spin and works ok. I then have to run a 2nd wash cycle to rinse the clothes. I also noticed a buzzing sound when I turn on the power point, which lasts about 3 seconds before stopping. It will come back on every 3-4 minutes for 30 seconds. This is with the machine power switch off. It powers on normally.
Good day, Go back and start a wash cycle. When it fills and starts running check to see if the agitator is working. If not then go here for a detailed explanation on repairing.
It's a tedious job, but with a lot of patience it can be done. If the agitator in the wash cycle is working normally, then you have a major problem, and would require a service tech. Not cheap.
Where you attached the new hose on the side of the tub, you must remove that hose and insert a small wire in the hole in the cup and clean out the soap scum. Re-attach the hose. Set the washer on spin and run a spin cycle. Then retry your wash cycle.
Make sure the new hose is not pinched anywhere.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
The cycle doesn't advance
When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
You said,washer is full of water and will not spin. You hear the lid switch
clicking. When you start it on spin cycle and hear a hum, the tub moves a
couple of inches and then stops...shortly after it shuts off.
Some reasons this may happen Washer won’t drain or spinn 1. Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of the drain hose more than 72 inches (183 cm) above the floor? 2. Is the lid open? ............Also the lid switch can be faulty!! The lid must be closed during operation. 3. Is there excessive sudsing? Always measure detergent. Follow manufacturer’s directions. 4 If you have very soft water, you might need to use less detergent.
Sounds to me like the lid switch can be faulty!!Then it acts like the lid is open. Huuum
Hi this could means that you may need to replace the washing machine bearings. Once the bearings are bad, the motor overheats and it will automatically shut down after the first rinse.
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