When switched on green light next to switch flickers but that is all

You could have a loose or a burned wire connection at the switches. If there is more than one thing not working correctly unplug the unit and check the black wire from the lead in cord. It goes to the switches and jumps from one switch to the next. That's where I would look first?

only use a genuine kirby belt. not copys that are sold on the web. it sounds like one of the end bearings is jammed with human hairs, remove end cap and cut out with a stanly blade

Make sure each fixture is grounded.
Add a comment after that.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Several questions here.

1) Lights should not flicker and switch should not make sound (or get unusually warm)
2) You should not have to 'press hard' to get switch to turn off.
3) Are the switches defective. YES. Remove and replace with ordinary toggle switch and see if flickering and sound-making continue. If problems continue, maybe local electrician should assess problem on-site.
4) Press to Release. You are speaking about wires connected on back of switch using 'quick-connects.'
Wire is pushed into a hole where wire is wedged against brass spring and held tight.
To release wire there is usually a hole or slot next to wire. Push small screwdriver into opening. Usually you have to push screwdriver very hard using one hand while other hand holds switch. Then use your additional hand to pull out wire. Or you can clip wire off and then strip back insulation and start fresh on new switch.
5) Builder electricians sometimes buy super cheap brand knock-offs that are not UL rated. Do not think all Leviton products lack quality. Buy new switches at local home center, and new switches will work fine.
6) When replacing switches, pay attention to screw-color that sits next to quick connect. Take a photo before removing all wires.
Screw colors tell electrician how to wire a device, and you can post new question at fixya, or add a comment for specific help.

7) Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

8) Take a moment and rate answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on electrical switches or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

This is a 3 pole switch
Black = Hot or Load
Green = Ground
Brown and Red are travelers.
Link to proper literature regarding this switch:
http://solutions.cooperwiringdevices.com/webDB/documents/cwd%20residential/instrSheets/469MT-PTA%20(REV.%20A).pdf

You could be getting power from the source in the switch ... does this flickering occur with a non illuminated switch? Have you tried the CFL in other sockets? Have you checked the socket in question for proper polarity? (Hot wire should be broken by the switch and that hot wire should be connected the bottom of the CFL in the socket). Does your switch have a white wire for the neutral connection or are you using the ground wire to illuminate the switch ... or is there a different lind of light in the switch and/or do you know?

Normally ... let me say again ... normally, (in a traditional sense) an illuminated switch should have a neutral connection, a ground lug and the expected 'in' and 'out' for the switch leg. Normally, I would expect the switch leg to use a black from the power source (normally found in the box where the socket is mounted) and a white from the 'off' side of the switch to the socket.

I tried to draw you a diagram ... but it didnt work out and you probably already get the picture.

If everything checks out ... and it still flickers, replace the switch with a non-illuminated switch or use a incadescent light until they are no longer available.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

you should send it to get fixed

Hopefully it is only a board component that needs replacing and your dry joints that need re-doing. I would advise that you take it to a television repair shop as this type of repair can be very complex (replacing resistors and capacitors just to name a few).

The vertical output IC has failed/Power to the vertical IC is out/ or there is bad solder on the pins of the vertical output IC.

i have the same problem. i have to switch it off at the mains 5 times b4 it comes on