Goes into reverse but once u give it throttle it pops out until back to idle

In theory once the desired idle speed is programmed into the management system, in the absence of such faults as air leaks, sticking idle air control valve and suchlike it should be impossible for the idle speed to be much different from the programmed value because the ECU should continue closing down the amount of air bypassing the throttle butterfly until the idle is around the correct value.

I think you need to go back to basics and double-check the work to ensure everything is as it should be. In the absence of mechanical faults and ignoring the possibility of electronic problems a high idle must be caused by too much air entering the engine, either because the idle air control valve is not closing properly or because the throttle butterfly is not closing fully.

It is worth noting air can enter the intake through leaky diaphragms, split vacuum hoses or faulty pcv systems. It is also worth checking the egr valve if fitted.

screw both screws in until they just come to a stop. One screw should have the letter H and the other screw should have the letter L stamped on the carburetor next to each screw. Once you have both screws turned in until they stop. It doesn't matter which one you back out first. If you do the H one first then turn it out approx 1 1/8 of a turn, the the L screw back that out approx 3/4 turn. Those are the initial factory setting. Now you have to fine tune from there. To finish fine tuning the trimmer work on the L screw until it idles smoothly and then set the idle screw to a speed when the head just starts to want to turn over. Once that's done work on the H screw by reving it up and keep it full throttle while you adjust the H screw in or out until you fine that nice high speed. then slack of the throttle and see if it still idles, if it does now give it a quick throttle up to see if the response from low to high is a smooth transition. If it bogs on the quick throttle then you need to open the L screw a small bit more and re adjust the idle screw. Good luck

Sounds to me like you have a bad air mass meter or bad map sensor.

I would try a new throttle position sensor. Yours must be giving a wrong reading.

Possible dirty throttle valve and idle speed control valve.

Throttle Body Cleaning on vehicles without electronic throttle control (most 2003 and down)

You can in most cases repair this slow speed stall or unstable idle by cleaning the engine throttle valve and the idle speed control valve using a product called CRC Spray Throttle valve cleaner. Spray the cleaner into the air intake of the engine with the hose removed from the throttle body, the engine will try to stall so hold up the idle speed manually. Once you have used up about 1/2 can of the cleaner stall the engine out while spraying and turn the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and then reconnect and drive the car for a about 25 miles of varied driving modes. If this doesn't cure the problem you may need the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by the dealer service dept.

The right side handgrip is the throttle sleeve assembly and grip combined. To get it out, first, adjust both the throttle cable and the idle cable (both cable going into the throttle assembly) to give you as much slack as possible. Loosen the two bolts that hold the front brake master cylinder on and move the master cylinder towards the center of the handlebars just a bit. The remvove the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully move the top half away. There are a lot of wires in this housing and you don't want to break or pinch any of them.

Now, you can see the round part of the throttle sleeve and where the cables connect to it. Each of the cables has a ferrel on the ball on the end of the cable. Do not lose these ferrels. Work each of the cables with the ferrell out of it's hole in the throttle sleeve. Lower the bottom half of the switch housing and remove the throttle sleeve from the handlebar.

Now, before installing the new sleeve, lubricate the handlebar, the inside of the throttle sleeve, and the round part where the cables go with white lithium grease. Slide the throttle sleeve back up on the handlebar and reverse you disassembly procedure to get it back together. Be very careful not to pinch any of the wires when you reassemble the swith housing. Once you have the housing together but before you tighten it down, slide the throttle grip toward the center of the handlebars until it stops and then back it off about a half inch or so then reposition the front brake master cylinder as close to the right switch houseing as possible and tighten all screws.

Adjust the throttle cable and the idle cable so that they each have just a bit of slack in them. Twist the throttle grip to the wide open throttle position (engine off of course) and let it go. The throttle should snap back to the idle position. If it doesn't, work with the throttle until it does.

Failure to insure the proper throttle operation could lead to a loss of control of the machine resulting in serious injury or death. This job MUST be done correctly.

Good Luck
steve

On an otherwise healthy machine, the carb tuning procedure goes like this:

1) With the engine off, turn both mixture screws clockwise until they lightly "seat". Then turn them back counter clockwise two (2) full turns each.

2) Turn idle screw CCW and observe the throttle shaft movement. When it stops moving, the throttle plate is completely closed. From here, turn idle screw back clockwise two (2) full turns.

These initial settings should be sufficient to get a healthy machine to start up and stay running for the carb-tune procedure.

START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW ONE MINUTE TO WARMUP.

3) Turn the mixture screw closest to the engine (marked "L" ) clockwise in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) until the engine smooths out. Then back CCW until you have a slightly rough idle.

4) Accellerate to full throttle and turn the mixture screw closest to the air filter (marked "H" ) clockwise until the engine revs get higher and eventually begin to fall off again. Turn back CCW beyond ultimate top speed . . . until a very slight flutter is heard at top speed.

5) Release the trigger and adjust base idle speed until the blades barely crawl, then lower it one more touch.

6) Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 once more and then check throttle response on quick rev-ups. VERY VERY small adjustments to the "L" screw in a CCW direction will give better response but larger adjustments will affect "H" settings.
That's it.

Special note for step 5: When you make the FINAL base idle adjustment, set it as high as possible without allowing the blades to move. This facilitates easier starts when warm.

Hope this helps,
Dolf-

Check the engine mountain rubbers ,, one or more of them is broken and needs to be replaced.

pop the hood, start the vehicle and move it from park to drive to reverse with the brake pedal down and you will see the engine moving. the broken mounting rubbers are the cause for this.

ok then these are the low and high speed adjusting screws. first make sure the spark plug is clean of buildup or new . what you need to do is first try to get it to idle with the low adj screw. now im not sure which ones which so try one and if it makes no difference during idle then try the other. start it if it dies turn the screw , repeat this until you get the right sound and steady idle.once you figure out the low screw trun it all the way clockwise then turn it counter about 2 turns. then tune the idle from here. you want it to have a steady sounding idle. now the idle sounds good use the high screw to adjust the throttle. give it about half throttle and turn the high screw until it sounds steady here. then go to full throttle and turn high screw until it sounds steady here. now it should sound steady at idle and throttle. and try not to trun the screws more than 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time,especially the high, you dont want to blow it up. lemme know how it goes

I was an ASE master auto tech for 13yrs and have seen this problem before. It sounds like the idle air control valve on the intake manifold has stopped working and the idle speed is not being controlled(letting the engine idle too slow which causes a stall when put under a load such as putting it in gear). Try giving it a little throttle while putting it in gear if that works let off the throttle if it dies you will know the Idle Air controll is not working.