Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV
I have a 4 year old Mitsubishi WD-52725 which has been giving us lots of problems...very disappointed with all the maintenance issues and costs incurred to repair...paid $4061.00 for the TV and then the replacement lamps are $225.00+ which you need to do after 2 years. The second lamp only lasted 7 months and we were not watching this TV more than before. I now have the blinking green timer light on and have tried to reset several times, left the TV unplugged overnight and nothing seems to work to stop it. You cannot turn the TV on while the green light is flashing. I contacted Mitsubishi Digital Electronics American Inc.- emailed to firstname.lastname@example.org and reported my numerous problems. They have given me a file number and asked that I fax them my estimate to repair with proof of purchase and they would then review and let me know what out of warranty assistance they can extend to me. I would gladly join a class action suit and hope everyone with problems emails Mitsubishi at the above email address. After paying so much for a TV, one would hope it would last longer than this.
There are 2 potential solutions.
SOLUTION 1: Success guaranteed
One is, correctly stated, that the electrical chassis assembly be sent to a qualified rebuild facility. Total P&L cost on the rebuild is more realistically around $400-$500. However, if you involve a repair technician to remove the chassis and reassemble--then--yes, you are looking at an additional $200-$300 in labor costs.
The chassis on your set is located on the left (if you are facing the set from the rear). You will need to remove the back cover of the set, including the lamp door. You will then need to remove terminal shield (3 screws on either side, attached to the support bars) and a host of screws on the terminal face itself (where your inputs are).
The chassis is held in place by 2 screws into the base and one at the top. The chassis will slide out, but you will need to remove quite a few connectors in order to free it up. This chassis holds the majority of PCBs for the set, including the power supply. The power supply is located at the front of the chassis (the end furthest into the set). You will need to remove the shield of the power supply to disconnect the ballast cables. Some people suggest you can snip these ballast cables, but I usually just take the extra 10 minutes to free them up.
Now, chassis is free and you can send it off. Please make a note of all the cables you send with the chassis, as if any are misplaced in the repair process, you can make a case for getting your wires back.
SOLUTION 2: Success Possible
In order to attempt this repair, you still have to remove the chassis.
Once removed, you have to completely disassemble the chassis, freeing most of the printed circuit boards.
There are 4 capacitors on the DM board and 4 capacitors on the FMT board that are known to "vent." Capacitors should have a flat top. If any are tented or raised in the center, those capacitors are bad and need to be replaced.
I have fixed a few of these infinite green timer light issues by replacing the 8 caps on the FMT/DM board.
If you are handy with a soldering gun, you could try and tackle it yourself, but give yourself 4+ hours to completely disassemble and reassemble the chassis and boards.
If you have a repair guy do this, you are looking around $400-$500 total. However, be aware that sometimes those capacitors are not enough and will necessitate a rebuild. A halfway decent repair company won't double hit you on the labor and just charge you for the parts and one round of labor.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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