2010 DIESEL, DIESEL FUEL GOES INTO CRANKCASE, A LOT! TRACTOR CAN NOT BE USED, CRANKCASE FILLS WITH FUEL AND SPRAY FROM CRANKCASE BREATHER SYSTEM. 1963, ITHINK.

Hi, now that you have filled your fuel tank with diesel again, I hope! why you can't start your tractor is that the fuel line has a lot of air in the system, and that has to be removed by bleeding the system. My tractor had a hand primer on the front of the diesel pump, or if the battery is good and efficient undo the leads to the pump and pump the air out of the lines, or use your tractor engine to turn over , thus quickly pumping out that air. Once you can see only diesel flows and not air, recouple all those disconnected lines to your pump, and then you should see your tractor engine burst in life again. While you are doing all this checking also check when you last changed the fuel filters, they give you heaps of trouble if they are full of gunk. Best of luck.

If your machine is truly spraying fuel oil out of the dipstick tube, you most likely have some severe engine damage, most likely originating from a leaky (dripping) fuel injector/nozzle. The fact that fuel oil is present in the crankcase leads me to believe that at least one cylinder has been overfueling, causing wash-down of the cylinder walls and resultant piston ring and cylinder wall (or liner) damage. Enough raw fuel is getting (first) into the cylinder and (second) into the crankcase to wash the normal oil film off the cylinder walls, resulting in excessive ring and cylinder wear. In all likelihood, you now have excessive crankcase pressure due to the damaged rings and cylinder walls, as compression pressure is being lost into the crankcase..

Have this engine evaluated by a professional, as a tear-down and rebuild is very likely necessary. At the very least, the fuel system -- injectors/nozzles specifically -- must be investigated and repaired...

air trapped in injector lines is tough to get out , ive had some luck starting it and loosting injector lines (at injector) back off one full turn carefuly "danger" (never take em full off!!!!!) , if u see bubbles/foam then yep it's got air in it , do this on each one till no bubbles show , may take many starts to get this done , me I very carefully use paint thinner in a mister bottle down intake(sparingly) to keep things going till it takes over its self , one other thing running gas in a diesel , makes for LOTs Of heat fast , id drain and refill the crankcase oil as well , those pistions musta let a lot of bypass down there due to swelling from heat !

If the machine's fuel tank is located ABOVE the level of the engine's carburettor then it is most likely a "Gravity Feed" fuel supply system .. i.e. no fuel pump reqd.
If that's the case then the carb has 'flooded' at some stage (most likely when engine was not running), and the fuel has simply flowed down thru the carb and into the intake tract, and then down into the sump via the crankcase breather tube. This is extremely common on "low end" brands which, for reasons of economy, are not equipped with low-mounted fuel tanks and fuel pumps.
The reason that the carb has flooded is usually caused by a leaking Needle & Seat (aka Float Valve) in the carb, which could simply be caused by a bit of debris stopping the inlet needle from seating, OR, the Inlet needle may need replacing.

The reason why the engine wouldn't start is simply that it was flooded ... just like cars used to do back before EFI. Drain the crankcase and re-fill with oil, remove the spark plug and let engine dry out overnight, fit a new dry plug, put throttle lever at about 1/4 open, and crank the engine (OUTDOORS!) till it starts. May take a while to fire up, and may be a bit smoky for a while, but it should go.
My advice ... NEVER buy a lawn tractor with a gravity feed fuel system. There should be laws against them.

If the machine's fuel tank is located ABOVE the level of the engine's carburettor then it is most likely a "Gravity Feed" fuel supply system .. i.e. no fuel pump reqd.
If that's the case then the carb has 'flooded' at some stage (most likely when engine was not running), and the fuel has simply flowed down thru the carb and into the intake tract, and then down into the sump via the crankcase breather tube. This is extremely common on "low end" brands which, for reasons of economy, are not equipped with low-mounted fuel tanks and fuel pumps.
The reason that the carb has flooded is usually caused by a leaking Needle & Seat (aka Float Valve) in the carb, which could simply be caused by a bit of debris stopping the inlet needle from seating, OR, the Inlet needle may need replacing.

The reason why the engine wouldn't start is simply that it was flooded ... just like cars used to do back before EFI. Drain the crankcase and re-fill with oil, remove the spark plug and let engine dry out overnight, fit a new dry plug, put throttle lever at about 1/4 open, and crank the engine (OUTDOORS!) till it starts. May take a while to fire up, and may be a bit smoky for a while, but it should go.
My advice ... NEVER even approach a lawn tractor with a gravity feed fuel system. There should be laws against them.

It is the pump and the pumps are about 1000 dollars. They are not that hard to install. IT should cost about 1500 total.

compression rings sound gone letting fuel into crankcase and filling up oil level, check compression and oil level

Many times a dirty air filter will cause this on this style of engine. When the filter is plugged, it creates a 'rich' fuel condition, and the engine smokes heavily, the excess carbon is drawn into the air filter, and plugs it even more.

check spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, choke linkages (for full choke/no choke operation) and crankcase oil.

Crankcase oil can become fuel contaminated, thus overfilling the crankcase and filling the crankcase breather with raw oil/fuel, and this is drawn into the air filter, plugging it, and starting this senerio.

If there is fuel in the crankcase oil, drain completely, and refill with fresh oil. Then you need to look towards the carb for an inlet needle sticking, broken, worn.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

check each injector in turn ( crack it open where the fuel pipe attaches to the injector ) be very carefull you dont get injected ( VERY BAD ) and use a rag to ensure the fuel spray dosent go everywhere , listen for the engine note changing, if it does on each pipe/injector nut this indicates your injectors are ok ,the fuel system maybe drawing air/loosing pressure so then replace your fuel pipe olives which cost pennys and the copper washers on the various banjo bolts /unions

Start with making sure your oil lever is not over full. If it is it may be getting into the crankcase breather hose that goes to the carburetor hence the white smoke. Sometimes also you can blow a gasket in the breather system and it will do the same. Check for oil leaks in the breather system. Hope this helps. donnyb60