Question about Epson Aculaser C1100 Printer

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Smae e537 Problem


"After removal check coninuity across heater lamp amd thermistor terminals. If either shows anyhing more than 13 Ohms then you need to replace your fuser unit."

What does that mean "across heater lamp amd thermistor terminals"
Where do I find the contacts for the measurement?

regards
Michael

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Check hvps

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

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Hi.. please help me.. my minolta dialta 183 is not working.. there's a code CO5 in the screen.. please help me to fix it.. thanks


C0500: Warm-up failure

Step 1
Check:
Fusing Heater Lamp (H1) turns
ON.

Step 2
Check:
Fusing Heater Lamp (H1) is open-circuited.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across both
ends of the Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1).
The Fusing Heater Lamp is open-circuited
if the resistance is infinity.

Result: YES
Action: Change Fusing Heater Lamp (H1).

Step 3
Check: Thermoswitch 1 (TS1) is operational.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across both
ends of the Thermoswitch 1 (TS1).
The Thermoswitch 1 is open-circuited
if the resistance is infinity.

Result: NO
Action: Change Thermoswitch 1 (TS1).

Step 4
Check: Fusing Unit Interlock Switch (S2) is
operational.
<Check Procedure>
Check continuity across terminals
when the Fusing Unit Interlock
Switch (S2) is turned ON.
• Across S2-1A and S2-1B
• Across S2-2A and S2-2B

Result: NO
Action: Change Fusing Unit Interlock
Switch (S2).

Result : YES
Action: Change DC Power Supply (PU1).

Step 5
Check: Thermistor (TH1) is open-circuited.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across CN15-2
and CN15-3 on the Fusing Unit side
with CN15 disconnected.
The Thermistor is open-circuited if
the resistance is infinity.

Result: YES
Action: Change Thermistor (TH1).

Step 6
Check: The following voltages are supplied
from the Master Board (copier: PWBA).
<Check Procedure>
Check voltage across a Master Board
(copier: PWB-A) pin and GND when
the Power Switch is turned ON.
• Voltage across PJ10A-7 and GND
DC24 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is OFF
DC0 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is ON
• Voltage across PJ10A-10 and
GND
DC24 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is OFF
DC0 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is ON

Result: NO
Action: Change Master Board (copier:
PWB-A).

Oct 05, 2011 | Konica Minolta DiALTA Di200 Copier

1 Answer

Minolta dialta 183 help me... theres a code in the screen CO5 .. and automatically turn off.


C0500: Warm-up failure

Step 1
Check:
Fusing Heater Lamp (H1) turns
ON.

Step 2
Check:
Fusing Heater Lamp (H1) is open-circuited.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across both
ends of the Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1).
The Fusing Heater Lamp is open-circuited
if the resistance is infinity.

Result: YES
Action: Change Fusing Heater Lamp (H1).

Step 3
Check: Thermoswitch 1 (TS1) is operational.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across both
ends of the Thermoswitch 1 (TS1).
The Thermoswitch 1 is open-circuited
if the resistance is infinity.

Result: NO
Action: Change Thermoswitch 1 (TS1).

Step 4
Check: Fusing Unit Interlock Switch (S2) is
operational.
<Check Procedure>
Check continuity across terminals
when the Fusing Unit Interlock
Switch (S2) is turned ON.
• Across S2-1A and S2-1B
• Across S2-2A and S2-2B

Result: NO
Action: Change Fusing Unit Interlock
Switch (S2).

Result : YES
Action: Change DC Power Supply (PU1).

Step 5
Check: Thermistor (TH1) is open-circuited.
<Check Procedure>
Check the resistance across CN15-2
and CN15-3 on the Fusing Unit side
with CN15 disconnected.
The Thermistor is open-circuited if
the resistance is infinity.

Result: YES
Action: Change Thermistor (TH1).

Step 6
Check: The following voltages are supplied
from the Master Board (copier: PWBA).
<Check Procedure>
Check voltage across a Master Board
(copier: PWB-A) pin and GND when
the Power Switch is turned ON.
• Voltage across PJ10A-7 and GND
DC24 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is OFF
DC0 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is ON
• Voltage across PJ10A-10 and
GND
DC24 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is OFF
DC0 V when Fusing Heater Lamp
(H1) is ON

Result: NO
Action: Change Master Board (copier:
PWB-A).

Oct 05, 2011 | Minolta DiALTA Di183 Copier

1 Answer

KYOCERA MK 1500 ERROR C-6 000


Contents: Broken fixing heater wire
• In fixing warm-up, the time to reach
50°C/122 °F exceeds 13.5 s, the time
to reach 100°C/212 °F exceeds 10 s,
the time to reach the primary stabilization
exceeds 10 s or the time to
reach the secondary stabilization exceeds
24 s.

Causes: Poor contact in the thermistor connector terminals.
Check procedures/corrective measures: Check the connection of connector CN4 on
the power supply board (KP-5059) and the
continuity across the connector terminals.
Repair or replace if necessary.

Causes: Thermistor installed incorrectly.
Check procedures/corrective measures: Check and reinstall if necessary.

Causes: Thermal cutout triggered.
Check procedures/corrective measures: Check for continuity. If none, replace the
thermal cutout.

Causes: Heater lamp installed incorrectly.
Check procedures/corrective measures: Check and reinstall if necessary.

Causes: Broken heater lamp wire.
Check procedures/corrective measures: Check for continuity. If none, replace the
heater lamp.

Oct 10, 2010 | Kyocera Mita KM-1815 All-In-One Laser...

1 Answer

Kyocera km-1820 error occured call service person c6000


Contents: Broken fusing heater wire
• In fusing warm-up, the time to reach
50 °C/122 °F exceeds 13.5 s, the
time to reach 100 °C/212 °F exceeds
10 s, the time to reach the primary
stabilization exceeds 10 s or the time
to reach the secondary stabilization
exceeds 24 s.

Causes: Poor contact in
the thermistor
connector terminals.
Thermistor installed
incorrectly.
Thermal cutout
triggered.
Heater lamp installed
incorrectly.
Broken heater
lamp wire.

Check procedures/corrective measures: Check the connection of connector YC4 on
the power supply PWB and the continuity
across the connector terminals. Repair or
replace if necessary.
Check and reinstall if necessary.
Check for continuity. If none, replace the
thermal cutout.
Check and reinstall if necessary.
Check for continuity. If none, replace the
heater lamp

Sep 13, 2010 | Kyocera FS-1118MFP Laser Printer

1 Answer

The screen is saying c-6 and won't let us clear it.


If you wait is the 6 followed by 0's after words if so its a C-6000 and is as follows.

Broken fixing heater wire
• In fixing warm-up, the time to reach 50°C/122 °F exceeds 13.5 s, the time to reach 100°C/212 °F exceeds 10 s, the time to reach the primary stabilization exceeds 10 s or the time to
reach the secondary stabilization exceeds

Poor contact in the thermistor connector terminals.
Broken thermistor wire.
Thermistor installed incorrectly.
Thermal cutout triggered.
Heater lamp installed incorrectly.
Broken heater lamp wire.

Solutions:
Check the connection of connector CN4 on the power supply board (KP-5059) and the continuity across the connector terminals. Repair or replace if necessary.
Measure the resistance. If it is ∞ Ω, replace the thermistor.
Check and reinstall if necessary.
Check for continuity. If none, replace the thermal cutout.
Check and reinstall if necessary.
Check for continuity. If none, replace the heater lamp.

Something in the fixing assy has gone awry.
Hope this helps.

Aug 23, 2010 | Copystar CS-1500 Copier

3 Answers

My new heater does not work on my hot tub. I have a Jacuzzi Z135 Model s2600000 with a Controller version r574 and a Balboa 58028 that has been replaced by the 53349 heater (4 KW, 1 PSI set Pressure...


Test across both terminals at the same time. If you are getting 230V, disconnect power and check the resistance across the terminals. For 4kW, you should get roughly 13 ohms. If not, the element is bad.
If you get 0 Volts across the terminals, the tub is not heating. ManyBalboa packs switch both leads to the same leg of power, so you can get 120V to ground from each terminal, but you get 0V from terminal to terminal.
The clincher here is that the "heater on" light is off. I would double-check the pressure switch. You should test it with the tub running in heat mode. Disconnect one of the flag terminal leads from the switch, THEN test for continuity across the terminals. If you get none, you have either low flow or a bad pressure switch. You can verify by jumping the two wires together and see if the "heat" light comes on. Again, check for flow. I would run any of these tests with the filter removed. The symptoms you describe are very commonly caused by a dirty filter causing low flow. Again, pressure switch test. A bad sensor would cause the "current temp" to read too high, and a hi-limit problem would cause the little "heater-on" light to flash. Unless that little light is just dead (I've never seen it go bad), everything you say points to the pressure switch (or a dirty filter).

Nov 30, 2009 | Jacuzzi S750000 Black RapidHeat In Line...

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Epson Aculaser C1100 E537


Hi there

This suggests a fuser error. This is the hot unit at the rear top of the machine.

Steps are as follows:-

1. Open COVER FUSER.
2. Draw out the COVER RH boss from the hole on COVER FUSER while pushing
COVER RH outward, and remove COVER FUSER.

After removal check coninuity across heater lamp amd thermistor terminals. If either shows anyhing more than 13 Ohms then you need to replace your fuser unit.

Anything more than that requires hands on technical expertise.

Good luck

ivorpits

Dec 20, 2008 | Epson Aculaser C1100 Printer

6 Answers

Epson C1100 Service Req Error E537


E537 is listed as FUSER FAIL: ? Control Thermistor detected a temperature exceeding the specified temperature. Safety Thermistor detected a temperature exceeding the specified temperature. ? The Control Thermistor did not detect a Ready even though the specified time elapsed from Main Lamp ON at Warm Up. ? The Main Lamp continues to stay lit even after time specified for the Main Lamp elapsed after the Control Thermistor detected a Ready. ? The Control Thermistor detected a temperature below the specified temperature even after the specified time elapsed from Main Lamp ON at Warm Up. ? The latch lever of FUSER ASSY is set incorrectly. You should replace the fuser unit. If the error remain after changing the fuser you need to take the machine for service as the error may relate to the power supply units.

Aug 25, 2007 | Epson Aculaser C1100 Printer

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