Question about AEG L12700ViT Front Load Washer / Dryer
The washing machine is working fine but when you set the the dryer on it goes through the motions but does not get hot enough to dry the clothes...
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: not drying clothes
sounds like your clothes are not spun dry enough try spinning on maximum speed alternatively check your water pump is not partially blocked maybe you need to clean filter let me know how you went
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
I'm also not a repair professional, just a trained electronics and mechanical engineer of 25 years experience.
My 16830 had been showing error E20 (draining problem) for a few days on and off and the tumble drier was not doing it’s job very well at all, so this is what I have done to fix it, as it sounds that this fault may be similar to yours.
The fault (more like design fault) was that the condenser was blocked up with grey sludge from the drying process and this prevented the hot air from circulating around the drum during the tumble dry cycle.
The condenser box is a large clear plastic unit located on the left hand side if you view the machine from the rear.
Before you go any further I must advise that you UNPLUG THE MACHINE before starting, as MAINS 230V IS PRESENT ON EXPOSED POINTS inside the machine.
1. REMOVE THE MAINS POWER – VERY IMPORTANT as live parts are exposed inside the machine.
2. Remove the top – two screws on the top edge of the rear panel (8mm hex drive)
3. Release the mains cable clamp on the top edge
4. To remove the rear outer casing half - 11 screws have to be removed.
Four 8mm hex drive screws on the top left & right side.
One cross head screw on the inside holding the water inlet.
One screw 8mm hex drive on the left holding the blower.
Three screws on the rear base.
Two final screws – located behind white grommets half way along the left and right half side at the base.
5. Carefully remove the rear casing half.
6. The condenser box is located on the left as viewed from the rear of the machine (see picture).
7. Disconnect the top horizontal pipe from the main condenser box and soap tray.
8. Release the bottom of the condenser box by freeing the clip.
9. Carefully lift the condenser box and withdraw it from the blower.
10. Clean it out – yuck what a job....
11. Refit in reverse order and test.
This fixed my machine a treat – clothes are dry, smell nice and we use less electricity – I would say a success!!
Posted on Nov 30, 2009
I have the same problem with mine. There isn't a fluff filter that you can get to easily. When the engineer came to fix something else he showed me this big tube thing inside the machine that had the inside coated with fluff. The machine wasn't very old and I only use the dryer for underwear (apparently towels make it much worse). So ... you'll have to get someone to dismantle the machine to get to the fluff. I was wondering if it is covered by the guarantee because it is ruining my washing.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.
Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.
I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.
Hope this is of help to others.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
It sounds like the bearings are starting to go.The problem is as it is 6 years old the repair job could be expensive,unless you have an extended warranty.It still might be worth getting a quote off one of your local repair dealerships.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 03, 2010
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