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It appears that they don't care to share their schematics. User manuals are available but I can't find any with schematics. Below is a link to the company. See if you can request a manual from them. Schumacher
There are two possible problems. Usually the FA-AD MUST go on the power end of the 3-way system and the FAELV-500M must go on the "switch leg" side of the 3-way system. If you have them reversed then the AD will not work because it does not always have power. The other option is that there may be a small "air gap" switch on the accesorry dimmer that disconnects power but usually that will make neither switch work.
a three way dimmer has three wires on it. two are red one is black. the black is the common just like the odd colored screw on a standard three way switch. the two red wires go to the "travelers" to the other three way switch. standard wiring practices: hot goes to the odd screw, travelrs go to the other three way switch. at the remote the load comes off the other odd screw.
It depends on the dimmer, but the usual in-line dimmer will have a wiring schematic o show you, you don't usually have to wire the neutral (second wire that goes to the non fused leg of the 13A plug top)
I presume the bulbs are regular incandescent and not CFL's or halogen?
1.The electrical schematics are in section 12 of the Haynes repair manual for cherokees 1984 through 2001 .
2. With all accessories turned off disconnect -ve battery terminal from the battery (wear your safety glasses at all times in the vicinity of the battery ) .
3. Solder 2 leads to a 12V light bulb and connect the leads as follows : 1 to the -ve battery terminal , the other to the loose -ve cable you disconnected in step 2.
4. If the bulbs glows , start removing , then replacing your fuses one at a time while noting which fuse made the bulb glow dimmer . The corresponding accessory is draining your battery .
It may be a little different on the 26" model. It's been several months since I did the repair so my memory is a little fuzzy. It sounds like the non flat strands are a common ground and the flat ones are the hot wires. The best thing to do would be to take a multimeter and test for continuity on the center of the RCA jack and the flat strand of metal. If you get a reading, that is where the input wire should be soldered. More than likely you're correct and you should proceed as you found logical.
All you're really doing is making a new connection for the component input on the back of the TV. So just make sure that each hot wire from the DVD player will be on the strand of metal that corresponds with the hot wire from the component RCA jack, which is the center part of the jack, not the outer metal sleeve. In theory you could just attach all of the grounds from the DVD player to any metal part of the TV; I do not know if this will work however because the set might have a failsafe on the motherboard, not allowing video pass through when grounds are not detected.
I hope this helps! And please let me know if you get it working or have any other issues.