Hi Robert:
This may not be totally applicable to your vehicle, but the principals are the same.
I'd start by checking the throwout bearing and lever.
The slot in the bearing has to fit into the cradle of the lever.
Double check to make sure the throwout bearing is facing the right way.
Make sure the throwout lever is correctly located on the pivol.
I'm guessing you'll find something simple, but annoying.
Last thought. If hydraulic clutch, check that function.
Cheers.
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SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: 1994 FORD RANGER STANDARD TRANS CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE
The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
SOURCE: my 2001 ford ranger clutch does not work
common problem with these transmissions have the shift fork replaced its probably aluminum a little is alot for those for wear
SOURCE: 2004 ford ranger 4 cyl. Problems bleeding clutch
Use a vacuum pump and fake cap o nthe master cylinder reservoir to pull the system into a vacuum while not pressing and then while pressing the clutch to extract the air.
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