How do I get the red&white wires out of a Starter/overload assbly
How do I get the red and white wires out of a Starter/overload assembly for the compressor in a Frigidaire FRT21LRGW2 Fridge? This is what the wires look like: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-FRT21LRGw2-%3d%3dei440253&PartID=440253 and this is the Starter/Overload assembly: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-FRT21LRGw2-%3d%3dei451855&PartID=451855. It isn't a plug, and I dont want to yank them too hard and tear off the conectors... Please Help!!!
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Re: How do I get the red&white wires out of a...
It's very easy but alittle tricky. use something thin and hard. there's a small tab on those connecting clips that you must press down while pulling the wire out of the relay.if you have a replacement relay on hand, then go head and carefully crack open the relay in order to remove the wires.
MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG UNIT B4 DOING THIS.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration.
These units are nice, inexpensive and delicate.
There are not a lot of components to this unit.
1.) As a former service technician I have found the customer is not careful when defrosting. The manual states use a plastic spatula and a hair dryer. The refrigerant passes through the plates. Customers us hammers and screw drivers to remove the ice. The customer nicks the plates and the refrigerant leaks. Feel the plates. If you feel a oily clear substance you have a refrigerant leak. This repair will cost more than what you purchased the unit for.
2.) The Compressor & Overload relay. Unplug the unit. Remove the side panel. You will see the compressor and a box fixed to the compressor. The box is attached by wire clips. Using a flat head screw driver pop the clips off. There are 3 metal studs on the compressor. You will see a white piece with a 'V'. This is the overload. Using a flat head screw driver pry off the connectors including the white component. Inspect the component for burn marks. Shake the white component. If it rattles it is bad.
The compressor - You need a multi-meter to check the compressor. There are 3 pins on the compressor. Set the multi meter to the lowest setting on Ohms (The Omega Symbol). Put the two probe end together. You should get a reading of 1.0. Put the probe on two pins of the compressor. Record this reading. Ten the next set, record this reading and then the third set. There will be one high reading and two lower readings. If the two lower readings add up within reason to the high reading the compressor is good.
With the compressor and overload, sometimes you have to purchase both at a cost of $250.00. In this case you are better off to buy a new unit.
The temperature control T thermostat is difficult to check. If all of the previous component check out then this is your problem.
Peter, Baltimore, MD, USA
Do not know if you mean the cavity light or the power indicator light at the outside bottom of the door. The power light is always on when there is power to the unit. it could be red or green. The light switch could be shorted closed or open depening on the MFG design. Rare but can happen, ground short through light wiring. Access / remove light switch, remove one of the wires. If the light goes out...the switch is bad. If possible and you have a multimeter and know how to use it. Remove both switch wires and with unit unplugged measure resistance to ground. open - zero through load L1, continuity through neutral. Plugged in 120v between load L1 & ground, zero volts between Neutral & ground. Keep bulb in receptical. Call qualified tech is not sure how to use tools to test.
Hello, The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.
to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.
both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test
if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
I suspect by your description the freezer either has a faulty overload protector as you mentioned (no there is no reset) or the compressor itself is seized.
If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ve provided the following info to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician as I would suggest.
I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...
** Most of the manufacturers of fridges/freezers have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to.**
If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.
**First, Unplug the freezer**
Remove the panel at the back or side down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor.
On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.
Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...
With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.
You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.
On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good !
If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.
The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it. NOTE: the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relied on for long term reliability or safety, but rather the factory replacemnet, double check with your model number. Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the reply and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa.
Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Probably locked rotor. This happens sumetims when the connecting rod breaks or seizes up on the crank shaft. Seperate your power cord ar some point so that you can put an amp meter around just one of the hot wires. It should be 10.2 amps maximum. I think you will see it spike to 25 amps for 2 to 3 seconds when the compressor tries to start. That almost immediately kicks out the overload. This compressor is not rebuildable. so it will require a new one if it is what I think.
check the evaporator and see if there is frost build up, also check the power to the compressor you may need to replace the overload and starter relays.if you can check the current draw on the compressor it should be 1.2 to 1.6 amps if it is not then you may need to replace the compressor.you may also need to replace the electronic control if eequipped
The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.