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Cannot remove brake and drive tube assembly

Have a Kenmore/Whirlpool Ultra Heavy Duty 80 Series that seized and burned up the clutch. I am trying to remove the brake and drive tube assembly and did as instructed by turning counterclockwise. The brake is definitely released but the assembly will not pull out. I removed the transmission and clutch assembly already. I even removed the bolts for the brake drum. What next? Thanks.

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  • pwlong19 Jul 16, 2009

    Hi Vic,
    No, I cannot seem to get the spanner lose. Does it have reverse threads? How best do I loosen it? Thanks.
    Phil

  • pwlong19 Jul 16, 2009

    Got it. I got the brake out now and while removing the clutch, a C shaped clip was wedged in the clutch. That clip attaches to the bottom of the drive tube and holds on several parts; a plastic collar with two tabs, a metal football shaped piece and a plastic piece that seems to work with the clutch. The bottom of the drive tube seems to be too worn away to allow the C clip(retainer ring?) to hold these parts in place. There is a groove in the bottom of the drive tube for the retainer clip to sit in but in putting this back on, the clip is barely on. Does this mean the drive tube needs replaced? What do you think? Thanks.

    Phil

  • pwlong19 Jul 16, 2009

    One last question, Vic. The clutch got chewed up, the brake and drive tube need replaced, and it was recommended that I replace the coupler while I'm at it. That adds up to roughly $160 plus shipping. Is now the time to get my wife the front loader with the larger capacity for our 4 kids? If so, what have you heard about the Samsung? Thanks for you help, and sorry if these questions are inappropriate for this forum.

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  • Master
  • 1,136 Answers

Hi, Did you remove the inner tub and the spaner nut that holds the tub to the basket drive post?
I can assist you with this if needed. Please let me know
Thanks
Vic

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Victor
    Victor Jul 16, 2009

    Phil, there is a special wrench but, if you use a screw diver or better, a chizzle, hit it with a hammer in the slots on the spanner nut. It will take a bit of force and be carefull the metal doesn't chip off and harm you. The threads are a regular direction thread.



    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 16, 2009

    Phil, Yes change the drive tube, It comes with new brake [ads and springs. It will make a huge difference in the spinning of the tub.

    Your clothes will come out dryer and will be easier on the drying time from the dryer.

    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 16, 2009

    Phil, While you are in there, use rubbing alchohaul and cleen the metal services the brake/clutch pads touch

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 16, 2009

    Sorry for the delay. Phil, I would fix the washer you have now. The coupler is a good idea while you are in there. As far as the front load washers, they are over rated. They get out of balance very easy, The controls boards are as high as $300.00 if they go bad, they get a musty smell in them within months, & the bellows connecting the tub to the door opening get moldy if they sit for any lenght of time without being wiped dry.

    Of course this is my opinion. I work on appliances every day, I would never own a front load washer.



    Vic

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KENMORE 80 SERIES HEAVY DUTY SUPER CAPACITY WASHER MAKES VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN SLOWING DOWN FROM SPIN CYCLE.


This assumes that you have a KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Dec 29, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 series washer is making a noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.

Jan 25, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Heavy Duty 80 Series washer that will not spin can you give me some kind of advice what it could be?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.

The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged
the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

Dec 13, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Spin cycle makes a loud noise when stopping


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Assuming that yours is one of these, the washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

When re-assembling the washer, make sure that the tabs on the drive tube fit into the slots in the drive block.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If necessary, Whirlpool makes a replacement set of brake shoes for these washers Part # 64232 (see page 14 of the parts list PDF.

Oct 27, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

We have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Heavy Duty 80 series. It won't heat up.


You probably have a faulty heating coil, or thermostats.
If you plan to repair it yourself, remove the back of the machine, locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside of the air tube is where you will find the heating coil, and thermostats.
Check your heating coil with a continuity meter across the two terminals.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore Heavy Duty 70 series. drains, but won't spinn?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If everything else works OK, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

Sep 29, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Direct drive-type Kenmore washer will not spin.


Check the video at the following link. I think you will find it helpful. Hope so and best wishes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

Sep 14, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do I take apart the outer shell to my Kenmore -Series 80 washing machine?


I have Serial # CF2467934 Model # 92588210 Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Heavy Duty 80 Series. The top agitator is stripped out, how do I take it out to replace it?

Aug 11, 2008 | Washing Machines

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