Question about GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator
Defrost heaters usually go out. check for heavy frost build on the frzr's rear panel. if lower heater looks black, then replace it.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like cold air from the freezer isn't making it to the fridge compartment. This can be cause by a several things. The damper that lets air into the fresh food side is stuck in "closed" position, the temp sensor (t-stat) isn't working properly, the evaporator fan (in the freezer comp above the coils) isn't working to blow air up to the fresh food section. In some situations, the defrost cycle for the freezer section isn't working and the coils have frozen into a block of ice and air can't flow over them properly so you get not cold air to the fresh food section but the freezer still stays cold due to the block of ice.
Posted on Feb 27, 2007
The same fan that circulates air in the freezer also blows air in to the fridge. If you open the freezer door and hold the door switch closed you should hear the fan running. If not you have a failed motor or motor control. Look at the back wall of the freezer section and see if there is a heavy frost build up. If so. you have a defrost system problem. Please post back with what you find and with the complete model number and I will try to walk you through the steps of checking everything.
Posted on Oct 27, 2007
SOURCE: fridge doesn't get cold enough
If the evaporator fan is not running. The fan itself could be faulty or the door operated light/fan switch could be faulty. If the evaporator fan is running. The fridge is not defrosting and ice has built up on the evaporator and the air is not circulating properly into the fridge compartment. The fan circulates cold air into the fridge and back through the fridge control which is normally just an adjustable flap which allows more or less cold into the fridge depending on the setting. If the fridge is not defrosting, the defrost timer could be faulty or heater element could be blown.
If the evaporator fan is not running. The fan itself could be faulty or the door operated light/fan switch could be faulty.
If the evaporator fan is running. The fridge is not defrosting and ice has built up on the evaporator and the air is not circulating properly into the fridge compartment. The fan circulates cold air into the fridge and back through the fridge control which is normally just an adjustable flap which allows more or less cold into the fridge depending on the setting. If the fridge is not defrosting, the defrost timer could be faulty or heater element could be blown.
Posted on Nov 03, 2007
SOURCE: fridge doesn't get cold enough
you have either a Defrost heater / a defrost timer/ or a defrost bi-metal that is bad. if you post your model # i can look it up and show you how to set it into defrost to see if the heaters are ok
Since you replaced the timer already that leaves two things you need to check set it into defrost if you know how and remove the panel in the back wall of the freezer you should see the heater(s) are on if not check pwr 120vac at the heaters if 0 volts the bi-metal is bad
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Posted on Mar 25, 2009
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