Question about Keurig B100 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Lower tank lose of pressure

The problem manifests itself by very little water being served. I have taken everything apart a number of times to try fix the problem. I have replaced all the silicon hoses but still have the same problem. If I push down on the plunger stem while the machine is going through a cycle I can get it to work. If I do not push on the stem I get a little water but then I can hear bubbles in the tank indicating that the silicon seal at the bottom is not sealing.
My impression is that either there is not enough suction or there is a problem with the seal at the bottom. Looking at it I can see nothing visibily wrong with the seal.
Any thoughts?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 709 Answers
Re: Lower tank lose of pressure

The only thought I have is that knowing the brewer is supposed to be left on for a long time and water kept in it a long time, Are you doing this? They talk about leaving it on all the time unless your not going to use it for days. It only has a 60 watt heater in it. So its going to take a long time to ready up to dispense. I am talking over 10 minutes. Do you get the ready to brew light before brewing?

Posted on Nov 18, 2007

Add Your Answer

0 characters

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add


3 Points

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Water builds up on top of k cup and leaks all over the k cup

I had several issues. Initially it would heat up and flash indicating it was ready to brew, but it wouldn't produce any water. It would hum for a while then eventually stop. So, first I used a paper clip to make sure the three holes around the needle that pierces the top of the k-cup were clean.You can also easily remove the k-cup holder and clean the hole for the pin that pierces the bottom of the k-cup. For some people this seems to be enough. That didn't work for me, so next I took the top off to expose the pump tubing (pull top handle all the way back and remove two screws under the top--the screws are a bit hard to get in later, try taping screw to screwdriver so you don't lose screw). I noticed the internal water tank was full almost to the top, so I knew it was not at this point an issue with the external water tank. Apparently when the pump dries out it sometimes can't prime itself, or crud gets in the line. One person said they used a turkey baster to force water up the needle (without needing to remove the top). I'm not sure why that worked, because the pump valve seems to be one way--I couldn't blow air in to it (see below). Anyway, I don't have a turkey baster, so I unscrewed two screws to get at the pump line, and then wedged up the black ring that holds the pump line down to the place of output. I ran the brewer and noticed no water come into the line, so I sucked on it a little bit (like siphoning gas). All of a sudden some very hot plastic-tasting water came through. (Not scalding fortunately.) I ran the brewer again and this time water came out (I just held the now-disconnected line over a coffee cup). I ran it again and this time it was trying to refill itself but no water was entering the brewer. Fortunately, I came across this solution. I re-attached the pump. Then I took off the external tank and Iused a screw driver to push up from the bottom of the valve (underneath where it flows into machine) and saw that water came out freely so I knew there was not blockage there. Next I tried the slam down technique described above. That worked like a charm--the tank started draining and I finally got everything working.

Dec 23, 2013 | Keurig B60 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

I have the EAM3200 coffee maker and it seems to be leaking somwhere into the front and back of the drip tray and produces only half a cup of coffee - rest of teh water goes in the drip tray seems to be...

I have the same issue. I have tried replacing the O-rings in the water heating element and the steamer, and it still does this. For a temporary fix, try running the steamer for about 30 seconds, or until it is running "full steam", and immediately make your coffee. This has worked for my machine for the last 4 months. It is used about 5-10 times a day at my work, and this still is working. I believe the issues is it is losing pressure somewhere, and the water cannot travel through the infuser. I have taken apart my machine more than 10 times, and I still cannot find out where the pressure loss is. I know this is a temporary fix, but it will work until something more permanent can be done. Hope this helps!

Feb 12, 2011 | DeLonghi EAM3200 Espresso & Coffee Maker

2 Answers

Gaggia Titanium - can't get it to move beyond 'Ventilate.' This started as a problem with extremely slow coffee output. We've been good about de-scaling but brought it into a repair place who cleaned it...

Select "Hot Water" and open the steam valve. Let it pump water out the steamer for awhile. It usually clears right away but may need to pump a lot of water to clear the error.

If you aren't able to get any water coming out the steam nozzle, you may need to prime the pump with the little squeezy tool they gave you with the machine - or you can use a turkey baster. Mainly you are trying to get water up into the pump to prime it (get the air out of the pump) so it can pump water instead air.

Oct 09, 2010 | Gaggia Titanium Espresso Machine

3 Answers

I don't have enough water pressure to make cofee. Very little water comes out of the shower head. The shower head is clean, it is not plugged. I suspect it is the pump? Please advise

I had the same problem: clean showerhead, machine pumps hot water just fine, but very little brewhead flow. Descale made it worse but that was a big clue! I took apart the brewhead and found grains of scale in the boiler, like pulverized beach shell:
Some of those bits apparently made their way into the three way valve and clogged it. I could not blow air through the channel between the plunger and the boiler. Not surprising: the inlet hole inside the valve is TINY and clogs easily.a0bc8304-2405-4fdb-a444-21cf80e7701a.jpg
Once I got this part cleared up inside (and cleaned out the rest of the scale from my boiler so it didn't immediately re-clog!), my brew flow was restored.

Sep 05, 2009 | Gaggia Classic Espresso Machine

2 Answers

Our Nespresso Essenza C100 machine doesn't let the water out, but it pours it inside itself. What could be the problem?

When you make several servings of espresso consecutively, the pressure develops inside the brew basket. , be sure to relieve the build-up pressure before you remove the brew basket by turning the unit to "Froth" mode and allowing the steam to exit.

Jul 08, 2009 | Nespresso Essenza C100 Espresso...

1 Answer

Water leaking from the tank & down the outside of the Magic DeLux

I have a Saeco Magic Deluxe that does/did the same. The water tank, when filled would empty down the side of the machine and all over the counter top.

I recognized that the lid on the water tank, when pressed firmly in place, created a back-pressure because air was not able to get into it and level out the pressure. I've resolved this problem by leaving the lid slightly ajar allowing air to circulate into the water tank itself. I've also thought about drilling a tiny hole into the lid itself but have not done that yet for I don't want to comprimise the plastic.

Peter (Detroit, MI)

Feb 21, 2009 | Saeco Magic De Luxe Espresso Machine

7 Answers

Bunn B10-B leaks

I used Foxhollowrun's solution and went to my local hardware store (Menard's). You can purchase 3/4" Hole Grommets typically found in the electrical department. The brand I purchased was Gardner Bender Model GHG-1575 3/4" Hole Grommets. Here is all that you need to do (very quick and easy):

1) Break away the brittle pieces from the original hole in the resevoir.

2) Remove the old rubber / plastic washers - I found I didn't need them. However, hang onto your metal washer that the drain screw goes through.

3) Slip the 3/4" grommet around the hole.

4) Place the original metal washer on top of the grommet.

5) Screw the drain screw back into the heater which will seal the grommet via pressure. Be sure not to over tighten it - I just snugged mine up.

6) Put everything back together, rinse several pots of water through it, check for leaks, and you should be good to go.

As Foxhollowrun indicated, you may need to tighten the drain screw a bit if you do have a leak. I lucked out - it worked the first time. I believe it cost me about $2 to fix. Also, I did not need any caulk. If you do use caulk, I was told you need to use food-grade caulk.

One last note - as Foxhollowrun indicated, the grommets are quick thick which is why I removed all of the old washers. The original metal washer is just thin enough to allow the drain screw to be reinstalled.

Thanks to Foxhollowrun for a great remedy!

Jan 02, 2009 | Bunn B10 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

For saeco magic comfort plus, I can't purge it! the purge indication is always on even if i use the water, steem etc. what can i do ?

in the kit of the machine they give a little pump if you dont have it use a turkey blaster the toll when you cook a turkey to put juice on it use that remove the water tank fill the blaster with water open side valve put pressure on the blaster put it in the hole where the water tank goes and apply as mush pressure as you can repeat it should vent itself if sign goes off refill water tank that it pierre

Dec 21, 2008 | Saeco Magic Comfort Plus Espresso Machine

1 Answer

Leaking water, does not close

I had the same problem with the nespresso krups xn20 machine. After calling the Nespresso service desk they substituted free of charge the water tank, which has a little valve with seal at the bottom. It turned out that the problem was not the seal of the water tank, but the seal of the machine (onto which the water tank is installed).
I solved the problem by using Teflon tape (same type as that used to connect for water pipes) on the water tank, applying it at the appendix which goes into the machine.
It's been working ok since then (couple of days). The only problem could be the wearing-off of the tape after some time (you will have to reapply it).

Apr 17, 2008 | Nespresso C100B Essenza Single-Serve...

1 Answer

Lid won't open - coffee won't

For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!

Oct 22, 2007 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

Not finding what you are looking for?
Keurig B100 Coffee Maker Logo

236 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Keurig Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines Experts

Barrett Palumbo
Barrett Palumbo

Level 2 Expert

1772 Answers

Mike Cairns
Mike Cairns

Level 3 Expert

3053 Answers


Level 2 Expert

78 Answers

Are you a Keurig Coffee Maker and Espresso Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides